1976 Datsun 280Z Coupe 2-Door 2.8L S30 L28 RESTORED! VIPER BLUE!

1976 Datsun Z-Series

Make: Datsun
Model: Z-Series
Type: Coupe
Trim: Coupe 2-Door
Year: 1976
Mileage: 148,000
VIN: HLS30294227
Color: Blue
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Manual
Drive type: RWD
Interior color: Black
Vehicle Title: Clear
Item location: Dayton, Ohio, United States
Extras
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Description for Datsun Z-Series 1976

** I AM WILLING TO PUT $250 TOWARD SHIPPING COSTS FOR ANY BUYER WHO WISHES TO DO SO **Up for your consideration is a 1976 Datsun 280Z. I purchased this car with the intent to resell it to someone who knows and respects these cars. I have no interest currently in driving a 70s sports car in the winter. It is fuel injected. so you can and I do drive it in these temperatures. Colds starts every time. This car was restored in 2000 and was titled as an antique until 2009. During this time. it had seen minimal road use (mainly driven to cruises and shows). In 2009. we retitled the car with standard plates. and the car was driven regularly during the summer months. while being stored during the winter. Unfortunately. it's to be stored outside the last three years. and rust has started in a few areas (see pictures). The car runs and drives very well. The aftermarket (dealer installed) AC blows ice cold. the original radio works. and all the original manuals. including the "starting guide" card are present. The car is fitted with aftermarket Western wheels (also dealer installed. as told to me by the previous owner). however only one original center hub was present when the car was purchased (they were plastic and simply pressed in). and we replaced them with American Racing center hubs. The interior. overall. is in decent condition. There is a split at the seam in both the driver and passenger seats. as well as a crack in the center of the dash. The seats and dash are both original. and were not replaced when the car was restored. All of the carpets were replaced. and are in excellent condition. The car had an aftermarket stereo in it in the past. and speaker wiring. amp output cables. as well as some sort of dial control (perhaps an amp level control?) are still present. Being that an aftermarket radio was installed. an antenna switch from an earlier model Z was also installed to control the antenna. The switch does not work. and appears to have been rebuilt in the past. The antenna still functions fine if the switch is jumpered. Repair the current switch. or re-install a radio-mounted switch. and you're good to go! There is also a rectangular hole cut in the console (the size of a rocker switch). All other lights. switches. and indicators work as they should. All gauges function properly. with the exception of the clock. The tachometer sticks if you accelerate hard. but goes back to normal after a minute or two. The original Nissan jack. wrench. and wheel chocks are also present. A spare headlight is also included with the car. as well as a "Le Bra" cover for the front of the car (this is new. and has never been installed) Some recent major maintenance that has been done to the car: 2009 -- New fuel pump and relays installed 2010 -- All four struts replaced 2012 -- New ignition switch installed by local Nissan dealer 2012 -- Cooling system flushed and heater valve serviced (performed at local Nissan dealer) -- This was supposed to remedy a sticking heater valve. but ended up causing more harm than good (see issues below) 2012 -- New plugs. wires. cap. and rotor installed by a reputable mechanic. 2014 - New Interstate Battery and Accel ignition coil. Issues with the car: - The car recently died while driving. and I couldn't get it restarted. Crank. but no start. I then had the car towed to a shop. they jumped it the next day and it started right up. They had the car for a week. drove it a ton. and it wouldn't die again. The battery was old and kept dying over night(the temperatures have been in the single digits. which liekly killed the old battery)so I had them replace it. When I drove it home the car died twice. Once I got it home I did some research. and all the symptoms pointed to a bad ignition coil. I replaced the stock unit with an Accel Super Stock coil. and it's driven like a dream since. No issues. and I drive back and forth from Dayton to Columbus in it routinely. Cold starts all the time below 10 degrees. -There is rust beginning at the front of the hood. around the driver's side rear wheel well. and at the seam on the driver's side of the rear hatch (see pictures) -The heater valve is stuck on. This issue was supposed to have been remedied when the valve was serviced in 2012. however instead of replacing the valve. they "rebuilt" it. supposedly due to a replacement not being available. The valve worked fine for a few months. then began to stick again. Being that the heater only blows out of the floor vents. and the vent/ac only blows from the dash vents. I left the valve as it was. The heater works fine. I drive the car in this terrible weather all the time. -The recirculation / vent door does not operate with the heater controls. This problem began after the above heater valve service was performed. The door itself still functions if operated manually from under the dash. This may just be due to a disconnected cable. -The clock does not work. This also happened after the heater valve was serviced. Presumably a disconnected wire. -The wipers are "sluggish". They have been this way since the car was purchased. They work fine in the rain. but if the windshield is somewhat dry. they operate extremely slowly. -As mentioned above. the antenna switch usually does not work. but could possibly be rebuilt. -Valve cover. oil pan. and water pump gaskets will need replaced. This is incredibly easy and cheap to do if you have any mechanical sense. I planned to replace the water pump too. only because it's less than a $25 part. It leaks coolant. but I haven't had any overheating. (and yes I drove it for 4 hours from PA to Dayton with no over heating. so it's not that bad of an issue)