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1965 Ford Mustang

Condition: Used
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Year: 1965
Mileage: 100
Vehicle Title: Clear
Item location: Anaheim, California, United States

Description for Ford Mustang 1965

I will post engine and other photos in a day or so. Sorry for the inconvenience.
This is a "Make Offer" sale which means that if you don't like the price you can click on the "Make Offer" button and submit an offer. I then have 3 days to accept or decline the offer. If I accept it, it is a binding contract just like Ebay's auction style auctions are. If I don't accept it you can make another offer if you want. A deposit is NOT required if you make an offer, it is only required if I accept the offer.
Ebay feedback is extremely important . I have received xlnt comments from others whom have bought cars from me and most of the cars I listed have sold prior to the auctions scheduled end date to buyers that used the Buy It Now feature. I am not a dealer . I am merely selling off a large collection of cars we have had for years and some of our relatives cars that don't have an Ebay account, however, I am a mechanic and professional vintage Mustang restorer and some of the cars I built sold for world record prices at Barrett Jackson and other venues.
This is an extremely good car . It is not an old worn out one that has simply been fluffed up with a spray can to try and make it seem like a much better car than it is. It runs and drives xlnt and better than probably 99.9% of the ones out there do. It never runs hot like many do and there is no play in the steering and it does not pull to either side when braking. It also won Trophy at a local show.
It still has the original black and yellow California license plates that were assigned to the car in 1965.
Professionally rebuilt approximately 30,000 miles ago with high quality parts. The cylinders were bored and new pistons and rings were installed. The crankshaft was machined and new bearings were installed . The cylinder head was rebuilt and surfaced . It has a new cam and lifters and oil pump. The engine was also balanced to insure factory smooth performance which is something that most rebuilders do not do.
The cam is slightly different than stock and is designed to provide more power in the lower rpm range and it gives it just a very slight performance sound and a very slight lope/rumble at idle.
I did a compression test and the variance from the lowest to the highest was only 6 lbs which is within factory spec and the compression is never exactly the same in every cylinder even on a new engine.
The engine quickly starts and there is never any lifter noise.
It has a new fuel pump, and rebuilt factory style carburetor.
It has new spark plugs, new Motorcraft plug wires, new rotor, new distributor cap, a Pertronix electronic pickup (instead of points) and a functional vacuum advance unit so the ignition timing advances properly.
It shifts as good as it did when it rolled off the showroom floor.
It has a 3 row aluminum radiator and a 180 thermostat and runs right at 180 even in 100 degree heat. Good luck getting any other 50 year old Mustang to do that as both the 6 and 8 cylinder engines would run a little hot in 100 degree heat even when they were new so this is a condition you should check on any old Mustang as it can cost a lot of money to get it to cool properly if it runs hot.
There is absolutely zero whine or howl from worn bearings or worn gears and it does not "clang" when the transmission is put in gear like many do.
The power booster and all the shoes and drums were recently replaced and there are no grooves on the drums. They don't bleed down at a stop and you never have to pump them to get the pedal up. It does not pull to either side when braking and the pedal effort is light due to the power booster.
There is no play in the steering from worn gears or worn tie rods etc and and there is no binding from an overly adjusted steering box which many people do to try and fix loose steering.
It has pony interior. The seats were done a few years ago and still look xlnt. The carpet is new. The headliner is like new and has no wrinkles. The gauges and instrument bezel are custom aftermarket items and the gauges have white faces. It has a digital am/fm stereo radio.
The exhaust manifolds on both the 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder engines are typically warped at least a little after 50 years and over 100,000 miles of use. This will typically cause a leak even if gaskets are used, and this manifold was no different, therefore, I had it resurfaced on a surfacing machine before I detailed it which you can see in the photos so it not only looks like new, it is as flat as it was when it was new and should last up to another 50 years or 100,000 miles before it needs to be done again. I also used grade 8 bolts to install it with instead of the weak factory grade 5 bolts.
The engine compartment is very nicely detailed and easily presentable enough for shows. The fender aprons were sanded and repainted. The engine was painted when it was out for rebuilding. The exhaust manifold was detailed when it was off. It has new factory style decals and even the oil filter is a new reproduction with the correct color and Rotunda decal.
The body is the most important and most valuable part of these cars. Once they have had rust repair or quarter panels or floors replaced etc, they are worth significantly less money because they are only original once and they aren't making them anymore.
The body on this car is by far one of the nicest original bodies you will find one of these cars after 50 years. The doors, and quarters, and floors, and fender aprons are original with all the factory spot welds clearly visible and zero rust repair.
Even the lower front corner of the doors on both the inside and outside and the bottom edge of the doors were they typically get at least a little rust after all this tie are 100% rust free.
It is a beautiful blue metallic color and was done a few years ago. It was not a $5,000 paint job however, it is very nice and definitely presentable enough for local shows and cruise nights. It was lightly color sanded then polished so there is very little orange peel. The door latches are not painted over like they are on many of these cars. The bottom of the hood, trunk lid, rockers, dors and rear quarters were also painted.
The door handles, door locks, trunk lock, bumpers, tail lite bezels and sill plates were removed for painting. It has a few very small chips on the door edges etc but there is zero fading or peeling etc and it has an xlnt shine. The chips are small and don't detract from the overall appearance.
I am available most any time to show it and encourage people to do so.
On Jul-03-17 at 10:11:41 PDT, seller added the following information:

It has a Pioneer Super Tuner model DEH-6800MP which is loaded with features including AM/FM stereo/quad sound, satellite capability, CD CD-6 CD-RW WMA AAC MP3 player, I Pod port, 24 station memory, sub woofer output, and 50 watts of peak power. There are 2 speakers mounted in the removable rear package tray. If you don't want them there you can buy a new package tray for only $12.00 and easily replace it.
These cars had an option of having speakers in the doors from the factory and that kit is reproduced and very inexpensive so you could put them there instead if you want it it would still be "factory".

On Jul-03-17 at 10:41:21 PDT, seller added the following information:

I just changed the oil and also installed a high quality reproduction oil filter which looks like the original "ROTUNDA" filter for show purposes. This filter can be seen in the engine photos.
Engines last longest if high quality oil with high levels of ZDDP or ZDDB are used which was present in the original oil used for these engines but the amount used was greatly reduced in many oils because it tends to clog up the Catalytic converters that are used in newer cars.
The oil I used is Mobil 1 20w-50 V Twin oil which contains true grade IV PAO synthetic oil unlike most other "synthetic" oils which only contain some lower level grade III non PAO oil which can be as little as 20% and the rest is just conventional oil.
The V Twin oil is so good that many racers use it in their race cars and race boats but it costs around twice as much as most other oils. If you want to use a less expensive, high quality, non synthetic oil that has high levels of ZDDP when you change it again then Valvoline VR-1 is what I would get. I have used that oil for over 30 years in most engines including high performance ones and it is an xlnt oil.