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1994 (1/2) F250 Powerstroke Diesel Ext Cab, 136K orig. Miles, Jake Brake---N/R

1994 Ford F-250

Make: Ford
Model: F-250
Type: Extended Cab Pickup
Year: 1994
Mileage: 136,660
VIN: 1FTHX25F6RKB64989
Color: Green
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Cylinders: 8
Fuel: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive type: RWD
Interior color: Gray
Drive side: Left-hand drive
Vehicle Title: Clear
Item location: Germantown, Tennessee, United States
Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Locks, Power Windows
CD Player

Description for Ford F-250 1994

More pics forthcoming, video links see bottom of listing
Ill try to truncate this listing, it will be my first auto sale on Ebay in the many many years Ive been trading here for my hobbies. READ- NOT A DEALER!
Non-smoker vehicle, it did have my lab ride with me cross country pretty much in my lap on a blanket, she was in renal failure and was my hunting buddy, passing in November. So it HAS had a pet ride in it, if you have some very acute allergy. But no smoking!

Sought this F250 Powerstroke for 3 months in 2017 preparing for a family relocation cross country from CA to TN. I shopped about 7000 trucks all over the country to find this one gem. Others were cosmetically better but had way higher mileage, most had AUTOMATIC TRANS and knowing E40 trans and the 100 as well all blow up at 125k miles.... well I wanted the ZF transmission. I LIKE MANUALS! They warn you before they IMPLODE! I digress....
Or they had way lower mileage and in need of massive work somewhere or THEY WERE PRICED at nearly 20k dollars! I knew I needed POWER to pull a load cross country and having a PSD was a bucket list item for me. I could not afford a NEWISH one, but was after one in 4WD as I was moving to "country" and figured Id need it. Turned out I couldn't afford a 4WD version either, wife precluded the expense. I submitted and found a 2WD truck in Eastern Oregon, One owner in great shape, not molested or abused. I needed GRANDPAS TRUCK and I found it. Flew in and bought it in Redmond, OREGON on a Sunday and it drove home to sunny So Cal. I began a 3 month reliability program on the truck to ensure that MY TRUCK would be ready for another 300k miles in my hands. From that standpoint, all work completed was for the sake of reliability ONLY, some comfort amenities but no performance mods. I didn't need more power, just needed a stock PSD. International did it right the first time my book. It helped me move 14k lbs of machinery when I got to Memphis as it was intended. Hauled some firewood, some sand and my kid to high school and to Lowes for plywood. Hasn't worked very hard in my hands. In SoCal it mostly sat for PREP or driven under test or drove to church to show off the proper truck that it was, pickup supplies to get my home for sale in CA, etc. No TRUCK TASKS to be done till I drove it to Tennessee. So the life of the truck is ONE owner in Redmond, OR (new purchase), inherited by son for ~25k miles, used on ranch in Redmond, then sold to me, registered in CA for all of 3 months and then to TN, title transferred here and used little. All I did was make the truck exceptional in stock performance and give it 20 more years of service life or more w/o big money to be spent.
Truck acquired at approx 130k miles, now at 138k miles.
The situation here in TN has changed as I will be commuting to West Memphis, AR daily and the line of work will have some emergency call assigned to it, all weather, all conditions, and this truck is 2 WD. Now it behaved perfectly this winter here in Memphis area in several inches of sleet and ice (no snow to grip, just an ice rink to drive on). But I do believe that I won't have the ability to simply NOT DRIVE when it gets ugly heretofore, as feeding the family will be predicated on me DRIVING in the BAD STUFF daily, all hours. So Ive opted to sell the truck and purchase a similar PSD in 4WD to give myself better odds at arriving both at work and home, safely. That is the sole purpose to sell "MY TRUCK" that I have so lovingly invested hours and effort into. All of my cars here will have to become 4wd in the next 12 months as Ill be on call, 24/7 and I have to GO regardless of where, when or why, can't change vehicles.
This is an Eastern Oregon, High Desert truck that spent its entire life in SALT FREE environment. WooHoo! That is why I went there- to get a GOOD ONE, not a Pennsylvania Rust Bucket.
Now that the back story is done-
1994 (1/2) Mid Year Model F250, Powerstroke Diesel, rear wheel drive, Badged as a Turbo Diesel, Ford didn't get the Powerstroke Badge for a while and this was the earliest of 1994 production, sold with the optional PSD. Yes it has a proper 7.3L DI motor, check the VIN and ford data on it. It has a z5f 5 speed trans, 4:11 ratio rear end, add-a-leaf on back springs. It has the 60/40 split front seat (grey cloth) and bench in back, on the extended cab chassis, a full 8 foot long bed as well. Chrome bumpers (factory), AC, power windows, locks,138,500 original miles as of today....... Carfax can/will verify this. NO accidents, clear title. What more can you ask for. I know, 4wd...... didn't happen.
That the basics, VIN will give you all the special factory data is searched.
The less than basics:For longevity I did the following and for the sake of longevity only.All work completed in CA before the family trip in October 2017, no other work done since. None needed!
6673 air cleaner with outerwear type pre-filter sock (reduce EGT)Early 1999 F250 PSD Intercooler fabricated nicely into the front endNEW batteries (two)- 2017 (Oregon Owner installed for ME)New fuel filter, (due again in 8-9k miles)Oil change, due now, will be completed before pickup here in Tennessee so you have full lifespan of service.Upper radiator hose changed and shortened (as the factory hose can be leaned on and nicked by the drive belt) The original hose had a rub and I didn't feel that was good for reliability!Fuel Bowl cowel removed for install of early 1999 upper intake manifold.Airbox deleted to make room for 6673 assembly.PS fluid changedBrake Fluid changedCoolant flushed, FOMOCO correct coolant with Anti-Cav additive, PH is correct.Headlamp assemblies replaced (OEM type, nothing special) complete for CLARITYEngine carefully pressure washed (to find leaks, turbo riser, etc, there were NONE!) (read again, NO LEAKS)Diamond Eye Downpipes, 3 inch, installed for EGT reduction and better economy (NO TURBO or EXHAUST KEAKS OF ANY KIND!)Diamond Eye CAT bypass installed for same (backside welded due to JAKE BRAKE VALVE)Clutch Master/Slave assembly replaced (first owner had clutch done while traveling and DIDNT have it replaced, its a disposable device and MUST be replaced at same interval as the clutch disc or travel is reduced over time)Transmission Fluid drained, inspected (clean), recharged (has been done once, no record of first owner doing so, drain plugs were factory tight)PID based EGT (Exhaust gas Temp) pyrometer installed in dash for monitoring only (Nicely done!)AutoMeter Boost Gauge in Dash (for monitoring only), again nicely done. No garbage work done anywhere. (READINGS CONFIRM NO BOOST LEAKS OF ANY KIND!)Crankcase vent relocated to near the bumper, under bed, with serviceable vapor catch unit (for 1999 IC retrofit use- keep the intercooler from collecting oil like its 1999-2002 successors do!!)Kenwood in dash, CD/BT/USB/HD/SAT (basic model) with new Kenwood OE spec speakers all aroundCarpet steam cleaned, upholstery too.Floor mats (custom) installed up front, rubber mast for back bench areaFitted dash cover installedAirGuide Compass on dash, calibrated and magnetic neutralized (means its accurate)NEW GLASS all the way around. FOMOCO front, generic doors, OEM used excellent QUARTERS and I removed the slider in back (theft potential reduction!) and fixed window installed. New Vent wind glass, seals, locks, new door glad seals, wipers, motors lubed, channels cleaned and lubed, door handles replaced as they were cheap and I was already in the door working, the locks were serviced (lubed) as were the latches.Tennessee legal limit Johnson Window Film installed all except windshield (of course i didn't tint the windshield, but some folks do.... thats nuts.)New Wiper Blades, of courseAll indicator lamps or door lamps replaced, all lamps serviced outside.The pneumatic/vacuum controlled heater damper hose had dried up like all 1990s fords do and that was sleeved for repair (like they all get) and should not give a problem for another 20 years. Done excellently.Clutch disc inspected, 50% remaining.Tires replaced 6k miles ago, BF Goodrich, All Terrain T/A KO2 (yes I get traction)Gabriel Shocks at all corners, NEWBrakes inspected, found to be at 40-50% remaining. No service performed.Wheel bearings serviced by Fireston, front end aligned and inspected, nothing worn or needing replacement of any kind (truck tracks like its on rails, stops good too!)Brake Controller, electronic, installed EARLY by original owner, works well (see my pics of the trailer hauled here in TN)Lastly (I think Ive gotten everything)- US Gear De-celerator Exhaust brake, 3.5 inch valve, installed by the original owner around 30k miles. He pulled a 5th wheel for a while and this was his contribution to the trucks performance. See below for specifics regarding operation.
Now for the BAD:There is none. Really!
Mechanical-Rear End not serviced since Ive owned it.Intercooler exchanger installed (was flushed and pressure tested-- read--very clean-- then I/O ports capped until I could move to TN, survive a winter here and be up to Tig Welding the I/O pipes to the proper shape)The early 1999 manifold of course is in a box waiting for install as well.So are the boots (NEW high performance Silicone) and T-bolt clamps.Basically I did the nasty fab work (excellently I might add) and had to leave the assembly work till I got to TN due to TIME (packing a home of 23 years, 4 people and a 15 year old contracting business too)The US Gear brake has been tested and validated via US Gear technicians. I then ordered the NEWEST production controller for the brake system and its in the box, waiting for spring like the intercooler, for install. For this part, it came from Colorado and it simply didn't arrive in time for me to even attempt to install.Wiper Washer Pump is dead, has been entire time. I simply haven't had time to get it replaced, cheap parts at RockAuto! The wipers work good though!IT DOES WEEP LIKE ALL OF THEM DO, AT THE DIPSTICK SEAL IN OIL PAN. One drop per week or two. It usually never makes it to the ground in the driveway, usually driving twice a week and you'll never see it. But it's there and as I understand every PSD on the planet weeps there and there is no CURE.It USES NO OIL< HAS NO BLOW BY> BLOWS NO SMOKE, its a tight tight tight motor!
The ignition switch was tired, you could simply remove the key who driving. It as replaced by a locksmith in Cypress, CA and multiple keys were PUNCHED form the KEY TAG which I have. So the doors (original) match the ignition, glove box key is included.
Cosmetic-Dash board has a very fine surface crack (in vinyl) and I added the fitted dash cover and tint to inhibit the suns ability to destroy plastic parts.There is a plastic cover in the interior that covers a hinge for the center console and it has broken (functions fine, just a difficult to notice cosmetic)Clear coat has bubbled in a few areas on car. It IS my grandpa truck and it earned the right to look like it does honestly.The Green two tone paint (factory color) is oxidized in patches like you see on old trucks. I like it. It earned it. Call it patina! Its not rust, its the paint.Bed has multiple hole sets form two different 5th wheel arrangements and a larger hole for a gooseneck ball hitch. To haul sand two weeks ago, I laid a piece of fabric and not a grain fell from the truck through the holes.The bed has rail caps from diamond plate, I don't like them. HE put them on, not me. They do the job but ..... Id have preferred them not being there esthetically.Bed has RUST in the rear corners, notable rust, not busing though but its notable. It was in pine forested area and pine needles DID accumulate and sat in rear of bed (truck was parked on a slight slope) and IM certain the bed rust is form needles holding water.See the picture of the bed damage, the first owner reportedly let the truck roll down the drive into a rock on the ranch and that was the sons moment to stop him form driving it permanently, until his death. Not an operational issue so it was intended to stay there just like the paint oxides and the clear coat bubbles.
Performance-It starts and I mean right now. Always has! When the PID EGT registers below 35 degrees the truck will prefer to have the block heater plugged in for an instant start. At -5 degrees, the block heater takes 30 mins to get me to 50 degrees at EGT on a dead engine, it starts like its 85 degrees out. One click and bang its running.The PID EGT monitor will not function when the cab temp is below about 25 degrees air temp. So when you get in and its FLIPPING COLD, the PID stays off, it does even have a good reference temp work with. When its running and the cab gets to 32 degrees, it pops on and works. If you don't run the heater an the cab stays below 25 degrees (done it) it will likely stay off until radiant heat warns the cab.It makes 19psi boost when under full load, I haven't pulled a hard grade with HIGH PAYLOAD to see its stay at full boost for more than a minute or two. I have seen EGT as high as 1150 F for grades but it didn't stay there. Hence the EGT monitor, Id downshift and get more airflow and right down under 1000 it would go. Additionally it states around 350-600 on the highwa, top end of that when passing, maybe even up to 800 when passing hard, then floating at 450-500 at 65 MPH. Depending on Air temp outside. The intercooler being connected will dump that 100 degrees further down. In the cold the truck does get EGT above 350 degrees, PERIOD! Its kind of funny to watch.It pulls HARD...... Ive compared it to an automatic 1999 7.3 PSD and I out pull the newer model. Gearing--- he had 373's. It spools up a tad slower due to the VERY OPEN exhaust system (still using the factory original muffler) and High Flow intake. It does matter, the 1/2 to 1 second spool increase is only notable as a before and after. When the boost comes on it will stay there as long as load is maintained. Gauges are wonderful devices!It stops HARD and FAST. Ive almost missed the 240 West at Summer Ave a few times, a tight short exit and have romped in the brakes form 65 to 25 while turning t make it and well....... it drives straight.
Shifts like a dream, you can half pedal the clutch if desired.The engine runs like diesel silk.

So I did the cross country thing, Flying J and Pilot for diesel. Ive run Stanadyne in it for every tank since here in Memphis simply to ensure fuel was stable at low temps. It has improved city driving by about 1-1.5 MPG as calculated. That no big deal, right?Except the trip here on Interstate 40, 1850 miles worth, I ran 23.4 MPG the entire trip (averaged) at 67 miles per hour.THAT STATEMENT could make me certifiable and crazy. Its all truth.W/O tune up form Redmond to CA I ran 65 mph. That 900 miles I ran no worse than 19 MPG through Redding and up/down the passes form Oregon. On the flat, it did 22 (on the 99 through fresno to buy the Intercooler parts form All Star Auto Salvage!). I had all the parts except the manifold for conversion before I even got the truck home!So the longevity and economy modifications made have improved overall economy to be better than my 2005 Suburban and ANY gas Ford IVE EVER OWNED (truck/van reference) and I have driven MANY for business purposes.Basic range on the "highway" for both tanks full, is about 700 miles, as much as 750 before you have concern of being below a safe operating level in either.
There it is. I think thats it. You can see that I have been intimately engaged with my truck and am fond of it, I have done all work with excellence and with intentions of FOREVER. Im proud to have made it do what it does, as well as it does. If ti had 4wd, it would not be leaving me, till death do we part. Hoping to find a similar example in 4WD that I can dig into which is UNMOLESTED and not HOT RODDED.
Trucks is sold as is, my description is more accurate than I believe any you will find on Ebay and is similar to the same description Id use for the gun parts and shooting sports stuff that go through me here with great reports and feedback. Ive taken the time to explain how, why, when and what on the truck so that you can make an informed decision in buying and bidding. Im happy to arrange p/u at Memphis International Airport and Ill buy you some Neeleys BBQ before you leave. I didn't get such a nice invitation from the Redmond, OR family who sold me the truck last year and believe thats how it should have been.
If you need more pics, of something specific, rain not precluding, Ill take them and send them to you.
I have docs for the truck, I have receipts to prove expenses and dates, I have the original maintenance book for the first owner good through about 100k miles. I have the intercooler extra parts for completion, most all the original handles, wind wing locks, etc removed, exhaust bracket (removed for CAT DELETE section), exhaust brake controller for completion, the original factory glass for doors and wings. Ill send you on your way with enough Stanadyne to get you home, a bottle of FOMOCO Coolant additive (or at last a partial bottle) and maybe a partial jug of FOMOCO coolant. Oil will be changed fresh for a pickup. You take the remaining trans fluid as well, If I have omitted something specific to this truck, well if/when I figure it out, Ill include it. Also has MANY sets of FORD CUT KEYS (NEW KEYS, NOT USED), punched by the KEY tag which I have, so that the keys have a lifetime of service.
No warranty expressed or implied.Not sure what else to add, except its one heck of a truck
VIDEO CLIPS AND NOTES:The AC compressor was ON for defrost at time of start and you should have heard it chirping under the hood during the run video.Also you couldst hear me well, noting the turbo downpipe doesn't leak exhaust, see the clean heat shield (dirty but CLEAN in the right way), Also noting the riser was steam cleaned as was the engine to inspect for oil leaks, there are NONE! Seals in riser and turbo housing are GOLDEN.Please ignore the dirt on floor mats, the work gloves and the ever-present toilet paper and tissue boxes for my allergy ridden nose here in TN.Lastly the truck is filthy on the outside (SOAPY WATER WILL FIX). I live buried in OAK and GUM trees, they drop leaves and NOW BLOSSOMS continuously and Im in the middle to nearly a month of rain off an on. I can't wash the truck for another day or two to get GOOD pics of it. 150 trees within 150 feet of the truck, still has mud on tries form the last firewood haul. Ill wash the work off of it and get good pics. Ill add a clean season pic taken in October when it arrived in TN, see the machinery being unloaded. Still had CA plates.Lastly I have no idea what Im doing with iMovie so the clips are ridiculous but are true. Enjoy my stellar movie career.
More pics forthcoming when I can escape rain long enough to photo.
QUESTIONS call me at 714-715-0310 (Mike) guy in pic, Ill be glad to answer ANY questions or send text pics. etc.
YOUTUBE LINK (turn your head sideways!)

On Mar-22-18 at 20:58:23 PDT, seller added the following information:

So today was sunny and my youngest sons Bday and I was able to get some pics shot, the truck is DIRTY, please use the So Cal pic with me smiling for what the truck is capable of looking like when CLEAN. I'll try to get it washed and replace some pics. Time is not on my side with weather and schedule. This is a whole series of pics shot by phone when the sun decided to come out to play today. The oak and Gum trees are dumping debris by the ton and I cant keep up with the spring junk falling from the sky.
A Note is that when I took the headliner pic I had forgotten about two holes that were rubbed by a box during the move. See the pic, there are two rub marks that actually made their way through the headliner. Abot an inch long for each, maybe 14-16 inches spaced. The headliner has three or four holes like an overhead console was mounted above the rearview mirror (see the headliner pics). The DASH COVER is covering a crack from the sun in the dash (forgot about that but was reminded when I took pics today) as well the original owner) had a COMPASS (garbage) mounted to a wood block, two way taped to the dash above the radio. That came pretty clean with goof off, but it did leave a faded/clean spot underneath. My compass is mounted in the same general area, on an aluminum bracket. That bracket was installed through a slit in the dash pad so its fit well. Also, ANYONE that has bid prior to 3/22/2018 at 10:00 PM CST, Ill accept a bid retraction w/o argument or question now that these pics have been posted. You bid AFTER that hour, it's a SOLID bid and I'm holding you to it. I'm sorry that the time has slipped by o photos and the auction. Appreciate your grace and patience. Breakdown of pics: Mud on tires from last firewood run. Bed full of tree stuff, dirt from firewood and bark remains from firewood. The cab is full of personal stuff like the windshield sun guard, tie downs, kleenex, sunglasses. Floof mats have dirt from boots last firewood trip. I am still able to drive the car and did today for 5 miles. Not more than the grocery store though. The truck was running, shot another video, will try to post on Youtube, this time it actually works (correct aspect ratio). The PID EGT indicator shows typical idle temps. See the tach position.
Bumper appears to be bent, its not. The bumper bracket is for sure misaligned (see the rock hit picture, right rear tire), I never removed or loosened the bumper to try to reset the bolts to realign. I added the Class V+ hitch, grade 8 bolts. THE BALL AND HITCH ARE NOT INCLUDED, the RECEIVER IS. Electrical to it has been used this last year and is working properly. No corrosion either. The spare is a GOOD USEFUL full size spare and was replaced with a used tire before road trip to ensure a viable tire was available. It is the same size as the current tires. The turbo boost tap in the MAP line is in view in a pic. Ill try tomorrow to pull the box of extra parts to photo and add, Intercooler parts, Exhaust brake controller, etc.
The intercooler interferes with the hood latch, see the pic of the hood latch. It was cut off and welded back to an operable and useful angle, you stick your hand now at a different angle and the hood pops with the greatest of ease. Not a shortcoming. I tried to photo the intercooler in the grill, hard to see though, a good thing. At least you can see it via the hood latch picture.