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1979 F150 4x4 with twin stick NP205, front winch and more on 38" Super Swampers!

1979 Ford F-150 Lariat

Make: Ford
Model: F-150
SubModel: 133" Wheelbase
Type: Custom Flatbed
Trim: Lariat
Year: 1979
Mileage: 15,900
VIN: F14SPEF1430
Color: Olive Drab / Black
Engine: 400m (6.6L)
Cylinders: 8
Fuel: Gasoline
Transmission: Automatic
Drive type: 4WD
Interior color: Tan/Olive Drab/Aluminum Diamond Plate
Drive side: Left-hand drive
Vehicle Title: Clear
Item location: Irmo, South Carolina, United States
4-Wheel Drive

Description for Ford F-150 1979

I offer this 1979 Ford F-150 4x4, regular cab long bed truck. As you can see, it is a unique looking, and attention gathering ride. I estimate the project is 95% complete. The truck starts, runs, stops and is driven occasionally. It comes with current title and tags in South Carolina. Over the past three years, I have put a lot of time and effort in this project, as you will read more about below. I'll also mention here at the beginning that I am selling this vehicle with a few details to fix, and a few recommended improvements to complete the final 5% of the truck. I'll list those details towards the end of this description. Meanwhile, onto to the particulars!

This truck maintains it's original architecture: a 133" wheelbase, 400m engine, C6 transmission, NP205 transfer case, a Ford 9" rear axle and a Dana 44 high pinion front axle. The gears are the stock 3:50 sets. The tires are Super Swamper 38.5" x 11" TSL's, mounted on stock 15" rims.

Starting with the rolling chassis, the frame was in fantastic shape: no rust, pitting or crash damage. I put three coats of chassis paint on it before refitting the hard lines and wiring. I installed complete new brakes on both axles including front calipers, all brake hoses and front axle hard lines. I welded the front differential spider and side gears, installed new drive axle U-joints, driveshaft U-joints, ball joints and replaced the front hub bearings and seals.

The rear leaf suspension I left alone, as it appeared to have about 2" of lift already. To the front I installed a 4" lift coil spring set, along with a long arm radius arm system and double shock brackets. I fitted a rebuilt steering gear and all new steering linkages. The steering shaft between the column and gear was replaced with a universal joint system.

On the drive train, I fitted new heads to the engine from ATK, replaced the timing gears with a non-emissions performance set, and cleaned out the oil pan before resealing everything. I installed new freeze plugs on the block and refitted the engine with new mounts. The carburetor and distributor are rebuilt units. Radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses are new. I replaced the passenger side manifold as it was slightly cracked. I rebuilt the transmission with performance parts, including a torque converter suited for providing torque at low RPM, and a modified valve body for crisp shifts. The transfer case is rebuilt with new bearings and modified with a twin stick for independent control of the axles.

I stripped the cab, patched and welded in new areas on the floor and around the top corner of the windshield as needed. The left fender was wrinkled, so I trimmed off the fenders equally and welded round stock to the trimmed edge for strength. I reassembled the cab after painting it in a semi gloss Vietnam era olive drab with all new rubber and door gaskets. The body work and paint are not the greatest, as I'm no pro. The cab is mounted to the frame on all new polyurethane bushings wrapped around the stock hardware. The decorative accent stickers on the cab are easily removed if you wish. A few years before the rebuild, I had stripped the cab and fitted diamond plate to the dash and door panels. That was reinstalled, but looks a bit weary and could use a cleaning and polish. I enjoy the space and comfort of the stock bench seat.

The steel platform bed is a one-of-a-kind creation. It was built to be able to load two quads side by side. It is heavily constructed and maybe a bit overbuilt for the ½ ton rating, but I know it is bomb proof! The roof area of the rack provides all weather (sun and rain protection) coverage for the cab, and has a protected space for mounting your chosen forward facing lighting. I pre-installed wiring for two separate lighting circuits up there. The fuel tank is a custom 45 gallon unit, with an external visual gauge. There is a 5 gallon reserve well in the tank below the visible gauge.

I added many individual improvements, some of which you will identify by a careful look at the images. Probably the most important addition is the dual batteries, with an isolation and charging system for operating the front mounted winch independent of the engine battery. I also fitted a power management system for any/all accessories, which is currently unused and ready for your electrical modifications!

I hope you appreciate the truck and the creation I have assembled thus far. There are a few areas that need improvements, for example, the steering wheel. I fitted a custom steering wheel to replace the stock steering wheel. I purchased the wheel believing the description that it would fit the truck, however that proved to be untrue. I had to modify the horn circuit by adding a relay, which was not a big deal. The compromise that is unsolved is that of the turn signal canceling: there is inadequate distance for the cancel ring to sandwich between the steering wheel and the turn switch. That needs to be solved. Another issue is that the rear of the truck needs a bit of lift (in my opinion) to be level with the front. An inexpensive bag lift would solve that. I did not finish fitting metal to the bed for protection of the tank and to complete the floor of the bed in the right front corner, so there is a small amount of fabricating and welding to perform. Finally, the idle quality and air/fuel ratio of the carburetor at idle has deteriorated recently. I believe the carburetor could use a good hand choking to clear the idle jets. Or better yet, remove and clean up the carburetor to restore a smooth idle.

For further improvements, I believe the truck could use better gearing, air lockers front and rear, and an on-board air system for operating the lockers and for general purpose. I created room on the passenger side firewall for the compressor, and I have installed a heavy duty switch for the compressor. These improvements are in my opinion, essential to making the truck an effective, go anywhere vehicle.

My reason for selling the truck is that my life circumstances have changed. I have moved from a rural area of completely dirt roads, into a semi rural area with all paved roads. In addition, the distances I'm driving have dramatically increased, so I have purchased a diesel truck which is better suited for long haul distances. I'm glad my daughters were able to enjoy a life where they could ride up on the rack to and from school in our rural area, to where they now ride in the safety and security of a school bus. I'm glad they have the memories of that freedom we enjoyed, and now is the time to cut bait.

While this truck is roadworthy and I would drive it anywhere, I'm a tough old bird that drives plenty of uncomfortable vehicles all the time. It really is up to you to decide whether to drive it home or have it shipped. If you are a few hundred miles from me, I'd say drive it. If you are further, I'd recommend that you trailer it. There are no climate controls, it's noisy, it gets poor mileage (10 mpg) and the tires are unbalanced and wobble over 50 MPH indicated. Not everyone is tough enough for the adventure. Consider yourself informed, and good bidding to you! I require a deposit of $500, via Paypal upon completion of the auction. You can pay the balance in cash or via verifiable bank transfer when you come collect the vehicle. If you have further questions, feel free to contact me, and I'll answer any and all questions or concerns you might have. Thank you.