1930 Chevy Three Window Coupe
Make: | Chevrolet |
Model: | Other |
Type: | Coupe |
Trim: | Three Window Coupe with Trunk, Not Rumble Seat |
Year: | 1930 |
Mileage: | 75000 |
VIN: | 1514314 |
Color: | Black |
Engine: | 194 c.i. straight six |
Cylinders: | 6 |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Manual |
Drive type: | RWD |
Interior color: | Tan |
Drive side: | Left-hand drive |
Vehicle Title: | Clean |
Item location: | Middletown, Virginia, United States |
Extras |
Listed by |
Private seller |
Description of 1930 Chevrolet Other Three Window Coupe with Trunk, Not Rumble Seat |
This is a solid original condition 1930 Chevy. It starts and runs excellent. It's either electric or crank start - I've never tried starting it with the crank. It didn't come with a heater or radio. It has the original 6 volt electrical system. I added a rear window LED brake light and seat belts for safety. I also converted the headlight bulbs (inside the original domes) to LED for safety. It's been garage kept since restored, and I've always used fuel stabilizer in the gas due the low number of miles I've driven it. Again, unleaded gas is fine since the head has been modified. The speedometer shows 73,812 miles, however, the cable wore out about two years ago. I've had one on back order at The Filling Station (https://www.fillingstation.com/) since the original cable broke. Since then I've been using a digital GPS speedometer which works fine as an interim. The 75,000 miles given in the listing is my best estimate. I've put about 7,000 miles total on the car since I bought it about 15 1/2 years ago. I've changed the oil at least every 1,000 miles but always once per year (in the spring). I changed the transmission and differential oils this spring using the factory-recommended 600 weight oil. The engine is not designed to be run on modern oils (same with most pre-catalytic converter cars), so I've always used a zinc additive which is highly recommended for older cars. The engine was not designed with a rear oil seal. There is a "catch cup" in the rear bearing housing with a port running back into the crankcase. So you can expect it to drip occasionally. The paint glistens but over the 15 years I've owned it, some minor flaws have developed at a few of the seams/joints. If you have a steady hand and a few ounces of touch-up paint, these would be an easy fix. I don't have a steady hand anymore. Also, there are some areas deep between joints and underneath that weren't covered that don't show unless you get down low and look for them. Issues that I know of:1. The windshield weather stripping needs to be replaced. I have the new weather stripping. The windshield was designed to crank up, making a nice breeze, but I haven't tried it since the weather stripping is so old. The new weather stripping is included. There is what seems to be a bee bee hole in the rear window. The top has a rubber covering (not designed to be opened), and the seam was caulked by the original owner. The caulking is a little rough, but since it isn't very noticeable, I've never attempted to re-do it. 2. The door window weather stripping needs to be replaced and the new weather stripping is included. Due to the lack of weather stripping, the driver's side window has two cracks in it. 3. The windshield wiper is intermittent. I have a new one but have not installed it. I've never driven it in the rain. 4. These cars are notorious for the mechanical brakes grabbing if the car isn't driven often. I haven't driven it much lately, so you can expect the brakes to be grabby.5. The cloth interior seems to be original, but I don't know for sure. There is one small hole, probably caused by a moth near the back/center of the seat. The door panels show fading where it's been exposed to sunlight. See the pictures.6. The speedometer cable needs to be replaced. It was working fine until the cable wore out. As stated above, I've had a new cable on back order for about two years.The interim digital speedometer works fine.7. The chrome around the radiator has a few minor flaws - see the pictures - especially the one where a small part of the chrome is very thin - visible behind the close-up picture of the chrome headlight. I may have missed something?? If I think of anything else it needs or any issues that I didn't mention, I'll add it here. If you're looking for a car to turn into a street rod, this one will make a very solid beginning. If you're looking for a drive-able antique, that's what this is. Due to the fact that Chevrolet used a lot of wood in the frames of these older cars, there are not many of them out there. The wood in this one is excellent. The owners manual is included. The car drives fine; however, it was not designed to run at modern highway speeds. It will run fine at 45 mph, and I've occasionally had it up to 55 mph, but wouldn't recommend it be driven for long distances at that speed. The tires are the original size and type, which means they are narrow bias ply tires - so handling is nothing like a modern car. Likewise, the mechanical brakes (no hydraulics - just cables) don't stop the car as quickly as modern brakes. It didn't come with turn signals - I've always used hand signals. I highly recommend you inspect the car or have a 3rd party inspect it before you buy it. It's ready to drive away; however, see my comments about recommended running speeds. It's an antique and not made to run at modern highway speeds. I'm selling it because of several rapidly degrading health issues. Buyer is responsible for picking the car up or making arrangements to have it shipped. If paying by cashier's check, I will have to verify it at my bank before delivery (I'm three miles from my bank which is open from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm Monday through Friday excluding holidays). Cash is fine. PLEASE BRING YOUR OWN LICENSE PLATE OR TEMPORARY PLATE IF YOU PLAN TO DRIVE IT AWAY. I WILL REMOVE MY PLATES BEFORE IT LEAVES. |