Dodge Challenger 1970 - Solid Frames and Floors needs Outer Metal Restoration

Make:	Dodge
Model:	Challenger
Type:	Coupe
Trim:	Base
Year:	1970
Mileage:	20,000
VIN:	JH23B0xxxxxx
Color:	Blue
Transmission:	Automatic
Drive type:	Rear
Interior color:	Black
Vehicle Title:	Clear
Item location:	Orlando, Florida, United States

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Description of 1970 Dodge Challenger

Do you want to own a Dodge Challenger for a lot less than $30K?Here's one way: Buy a very restorable one for a lot less and make it $30K with sweat equity. Yes. of course. I have the title to the car. I bought this 1970 Dodge Challenger in 1987 and restored it in 1989. It was beautiful for at least 15 years as a 1992 photo posted here shows. But it's been outside for 25 years and developed rust problems around the front and rear windshields in Florida's rainy weather. The front and rear sub-frames are perfectly solid. It's a Florida car. No road salt down here. The floors including the trunk floor are perfectly solid. I've included photos of the frame and floors. Both Quarters. Roof. Rear Deck. Cowl. both A-Pillar tops suffered some rust damage and need to be replaced with aftermarket sheet metal for a perfect restoration. The aftermarket provides replacement sheet metal on all these parts. The structural metal of the car such as the underneath A-Pillar is fine. The vehicle was only driven 20K miles since restored in 1989. It has a remanufactured 1970 225 slant six engine with only 20K miles on it. It lost some compression in one of the cylinders so it doesn't idle as smoothly as it did. The 904 Transmission is in very good condition. It performed perfectly when I drove it but is the original transmission. I doubt that the Slant Six driveline is of interest. Replace it with a V-8 driveline. I have a V-8 Radiator Bulkhead that can be installed on the car in a V-8 conversion. The Gas Tank is in very good condition. The Rear Bumper and Rear Valance are in very good condition. The Taillights are in good condition. The lens are good but the lens housings have some chrome pitting due to age. The Side Marker Lamps are very good. The Trunk Lid is in good shape but I recommend replacing it with an aftermarket piece. I recommend replacing the Rear Windshield. It's still OK and certainly can be reused. but it has a scratch or two in it. The Side Glass is in very good condition. A replacement is required for the Front Windshield. The Doors and Fenders were part of the 1989 restoration and thus are straight. without body dings. Unfortunately. due to rain exposure. there is one small rust spot at the rear bottom of each Fender and a little bit worse and the front bottom of the doors. The Fenders can certainly be repaired fairly easily thus saving $600 each for each replacement aftermarket Fender. The Doors are a little worse and certainly can be repaired. The 1970 Grille and Headlight Bezels are in good condition but have some metal damage. One of the Bezels has a small impact area so it's not perfect. One of the ends of the Grille has some perturbation in the metal. I recommend replacing the RT Hood that was on the car. It's no longer part of the car. I believe the Front Bumper Frames are in good condition. but the Front Bumper or the Front Valance are no longer part of the car. The Front Suspension is in SUPERB condition. The best part of the car. The whole Front Suspension was rebuilt in 1989 with Moog heavy-duty parts and performance bushings and is still like new. The chrome trim around the windshields is in very condition. The front brakes are drum without power booster. but that worked fine in a 6 cylinder car. You'll have to buy new seats and carpet. The Headliner is from the 1989 restoration and is fine. The Dash has an aftermarket cap on it. which looks OK. The car has all the interior trim pieces. I recommend replacement of the hard plastic Door and Rear Panels. They're in good shape but the prior owner cut out speaker holes in them. The car is completely dismantled. The body and parts are in storage inside my garage. The car sits on plywood boards and can be slid on plywood out of the garage onto the driveway and picked-up. Most of the parts are stored on storage shelves in my garage. On Mar-05-15 at 17:04:05 PST. seller added the following information:Do you want to own a Dodge Challenger for a lot less than $30K? Here's one way: Buy a very restorable one for a lot less and make it $30K with sweat equity. Yes. of course. I have the title to the car. I bought this 1970 Dodge Challenger in 1987 and restored it in 1989. It was beautiful for at least 15 years as a 1992 photo posted here shows. But it's been outside for 25 years and developed rust problems around the front and rear windshields in Florida's rainy weather. The front and rear sub-frames are perfectly solid. It's a Florida car. No road salt down here. The floors including the trunk floor are perfectly solid. I've included photos of the frame and floors. Both Quarters. Roof. Rear Deck. Cowl. both A-Pillar tops suffered some rust damage and need to be replaced with aftermarket sheet metal for a perfect restoration. The aftermarket provides replacement sheet metal on all these parts. The structural metal of the car such as the underneath A-Pillar is fine. The vehicle was only driven 20K miles since restored in 1989. It has a remanufactured 1970 225 slant six engine with only 20K miles on it. It lost some compression in one of the cylinders so it doesn't idle as smoothly as it did. The carburetor is in good condition. The 904 Transmission is in very good condition. It performed perfectly when I drove it but is the original transmission. I doubt that the Slant Six driveline is of interest. Replace it with a V-8 driveline. I have a V-8 Radiator Bulkhead that can be installed on the car in a V-8 conversion. The Gas Tank is in very good condition. The Rear Bumper and Rear Valance are in very good condition. The Taillights are in good condition. The lens are good but the lens housings have some chrome pitting due to age. The Side Marker Lamps are very good. The Trunk Lid is in good shape but I recommend replacing it with an aftermarket piece. I recommend replacing the Rear Windshield. It's still OK and certainly can be reused. but it has a scratch or two in it. The Side Glass is in very good condition. A replacement is required for the Front Windshield. The Doors and Fenders were part of the 1989 restoration and thus are straight. without body dings. Unfortunately. due to rain exposure. there is one small rust spot at the rear bottom of each Fender and a little bit worse and the front bottom of the doors. The Fenders can certainly be repaired fairly easily thus saving $600 each for each replacement aftermarket Fender. The Doors are a little worse and certainly can be repaired. The 1970 Grille and Headlight Bezels are in good condition but have some metal damage. One of the Bezels has a small impact area so it's not perfect. One of the ends of the Grille has some perturbation in the metal. I recommend replacing the RT Hood that was on the car. It's no longer part of the car. I believe the Front Bumper Frames are in good condition. but the Front Bumper or the Front Valance are no longer part of the car. The Front Suspension is in SUPERB condition. The best part of the car. The whole Front Suspension was rebuilt in 1989 with Moog heavy-duty parts and performance bushings and is still like new. The chrome trim around the windshields is in very condition. The front brakes are drum without power booster. but that worked fine in a 6 cylinder car. The car has power steering and the pump and gear box are in very good condition. You'll have to buy new seats and carpet. The Headliner is from the 1989 restoration and is good. The Dash has an aftermarket cap on it. which looks OK. I don't recall the exact condition of the Dash underneath the cap. my recollection is from 1989. I recall that the Dash wasn't bad but wasn't perfect and should be replaced with an aftermarket dash or redone by Just Dashes if they're still around. The Dash was a non-1970 replacement in 1989 because the 1970 Dash wasn’t in usable condition. It doesn't contain the VIN tag on it. The Fender Tag with the VIN has always been on the car. I stored away the Dash VIN tag for safe keeping. The car has all the interior trim pieces. You'll need to replace the steering wheel. The steering column is good and contains the transmission shifter. I recommend replacement of the hard plastic Door and Rear Panels. They're in good shape but the prior owner cut out speaker holes in them. The car is completely dismantled. The body and parts are in storage inside my garage. The car sits on plywood boards and can be slid on plywood out of the garage onto the driveway and picked-up. Most of the parts are stored on storage shelves in my garage. I'll post a photo on that. I still have the stock Mopar mags shown in the picture and am willing to sell them separately. When you buy the car you can look at them. There in very good condition. On Mar-06-15 at 19:47:15 PST. seller added the following information: Do you want to own a Dodge Challenger for a lot less than $30K?Here's one way: Buy a very restorable one for a lot less and make it $30K with sweat equity. Yes. of course. I have the title to the car. I bought this 1970 Dodge Challenger in 1987 and restored it in 1989. It was beautiful for at least 15 years as a 1992 photo posted here shows. But it's been outside for 25 years and developed rust problems around the front and rear windshields in Florida's rainy weather. The front and rear sub-frames are perfectly solid. It's a Florida car. No road salt down here. The floors including the trunk floor are perfectly solid. I've included photos of the frame and floors. Both Quarters. Roof. Rear Deck. Cowl. both A-Pillar tops suffered some rust damage and need to be replaced with aftermarket sheet metal for a perfect restoration. The aftermarket provides replacement sheet metal on all these parts. The structural metal of the car such as the underneath A-Pillar is fine. The vehicle was only driven 20K miles since restored in 1989. It has a remanufactured 1970 225 slant six engine with only 20K miles on it. It lost some compression in one of the cylinders so it doesn't idle as smoothly as it did. The carburetor is in good condition. The 904 Transmission is in very good condition. It performed perfectly when I drove it but is the original transmission. I doubt that the Slant Six driveline is of interest. Replace it with a V-8 driveline. I have a V-8 Radiator Bulkhead that can be installed on the car in a V-8 conversion. A new Radiator was installed in 1989 and so it only has 20K miles on it. So it's very good. But it's a Radiator for the Slant Six. not a V-8. I installed a new Battery Tray in 1989 and I think it's still good. The car was equipped with Chrysler's Electronic Ignition in 1989. The Gas Tank is in very good condition. The Rear Bumper and Rear Valance are in very good condition. The Rear Leaf Springs are very good. but I don't recall if they're original from the car. They look beefy for a Slant Six. so I may have installed new Springs in 1989. The Taillights are in good condition. The lens are good but the lens housings have some chrome pitting due to age. The Side Marker Lamps are very good. The Trunk Lid is in good shape but had some inner panel rust damage that was repaired in 1989. I recommend replacing it with an aftermarket piece. I recommend replacing the Rear Windshield. It's still OK and certainly can be reused. but it has a scratch or two in it. The Side Glass is in very good condition. A replacement is required for the Front Windshield. The Doors and Fenders were part of the 1989 restoration and thus are straight. without body dings. The Fenders. due to being off the car and stored with each other. their sharp edges scratched the other's paint. The car was primered in Epoxy Primer then Surfacing Primer then Acrylic Lacquer top coat in 1989. The Epoxy Primer is still state-of-the-art primer and I don't recommend removing it in areas not being repaired when repainting the car. Sand the Lacquer top coat down to the Surfacing Primer layer underneath since much better Top Coat paints are available now. Unfortunately. due to rain exposure. there is one small rust spot at the rear bottom of each Fender and a little bit worse and the front bottom of the doors. The Fenders can certainly be repaired fairly easily thus saving $600 each for each replacement aftermarket Fender. The Doors are a little worse and certainly can be repaired. The 1970 Grille and Headlight Bezels are in good condition but have some metal damage. I know for sure that one of the Bezels has a small impact area so it's not perfect. nbsp; and it's possible the other Headlight Bezel has some metal damage. but I don't recall. It's a 45 year old car. These smaller parts are in storage and I haven't looked at them in a year so I don't recall everything. One of the ends of the Grille has some perturbation in the metal. I recommend replacing the RT Hood that was on the car. It's no longer part of the car. I believe the Front Bumper Frames are in good condition. but the Front Bumper or the Front Valance are no longer part of the car. The Front Suspension is in SUPERB condition. The best part of the car. The whole Front Suspension was rebuilt in 1989 with Moog heavy-duty parts and performance bushings and is still like new. The chrome trim around the windshields is in very condition. The front brakes are drum without power booster. but that worked fine in a 6 cylinder car. The car has power steering and the pump and gear box are in very good condition. You'll have to buy new seats and carpet. The Headliner is from the 1989 restoration and is good. The Dash has an aftermarket cap on it. which looks OK. I don't recall the exact condition of the Dash underneath the cap. my recollection is from 1989. I recall that the Dash wasn't bad but wasn't perfect and should be replaced with an aftermarket dash or redone by Just Dashes if they're still around. The Dash was a non-1970 replacement in 1989 because the 1970 Dash wasn’t in usable condition. It doesn't contain the VIN tag on it. The Fender Tag with the VIN has always been on the car. I stored away the Dash VIN tag for safe keeping. The car has all the interior trim pieces. You'll need to replace the steering wheel. The steering column is good and contains the transmission shifter. I recommend replacement of the hard plastic Door and Rear Panels. They're in good shape but the prior owner cut out speaker holes in them. The car is completely dismantled. The body and most parts are in storage inside my garage. Some parts are in protected storage not in my garage. The car sits on plywood boards and can be slid on plywood out of the garage onto the driveway and picked-up. Most of the parts are stored on storage shelves in my garage. I'll post a photo on that. I still have the stock Mopar Road Wheel mags shown in the picture and am willing to sell them separately. When you buy the car you can look at them. There in very good condition. On Mar-06-15 at 20:06:14 PST. seller added the following information:FYI: The 1970 225 Slant Six engine with the car is a 1970 engine. Slant Sixes still had Forged Cranks in 1970 model engines!You can research it. The long block was purchased from a major engine remanufacturer when I restored the car. I don't recall their name but simply recall that they were one of the major remanufacturers. And they provided a 1970 model engine for a 1970 car. Thus this Slant Six is a 1970 model and thus has the very rare Forged Crankshaft to the best of my knowledge. Thus the Buyer could choose to make a performance engine of this 1970 Slant Six if they want to stay with the 6 cylinder drivetrain. On Mar-07-15 at 15:59:12 PST. seller added the following information: The VIN is JH23B0B332731. On Mar-08-15 at 03:13:48 PDT. seller added the following information:The bids are very near the Reserve Price. And the Reserve Price is much lower than the value of the car. Keep bidding. You're almost there. I hope to have more photos posted today March 8.