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1953 Dodge M37 3/4 ton Weapons Carrier.Well taken care of, and looking for a new home. YOU TUBE VIDEOS BELOW / / / Copy and paste the link to your search bar...Starting Procedure... https://youtu.be/Sf3VXrQ9gycEngine bay tour... https://youtu.be/Ngm0FlrGHHEEngine running, Cold start, 95 degrees outside... https://youtu.be/OwAfwQVYlPgBraden LU4 winch tour and upgrades... https://youtu.be/rjtA7Uz0lQgKeeping people honest upgrades... https://youtu.be/MWLL0ZoRwx0Tour of the bed... https://youtu.be/tDUDXYsml8ABuilt like a tank. Shaped like a truck. The TOUGHEST truck I’ve ever owned... period!It has a top speed of 45mph... Maybe 50mph down a mine shaft with a tail wind. Geared LOW!Runs perfectly and always has. Everything works!!! Starts all the time, every time, on time. Stops well too. Goes where you aim it...literally.Had a frame off restoration from 96-98, front to back top to bottom. Been outside since then, that's why it has the military patina. ZERO RUST! Fuel tank was etched and lined even though it didn't need it. The only thing not original is the generator. It was swapped for a single wire Delco Remy 24 volt (model S-10) alternator. Properly done. I still have the disassembled generator.Everything mechanical was done right and mostly with new old stock parts (NOS). NOS leaf springs front and back, shackles, brake lines, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, window regulators, tail gate, spare tire spinner and mount plate, seals throughout the truck, u joints in all drive lines including the PTO drive line, NOS wiring harness etc, etc., etc,etc, etc. Lots of receipts. The engine was completely rebuilt and also balanced. Set up for unleaded fuels.There is only 1,300 miles since everything was done. Front to back. Top to bottom.230 C.I. flat head 6 cylinder (78HP)New process 420 transmission (4 speed)New process 200 series divorced transfer case (1:96 to 1 ration)Chrysler 10" axles (5:83 to 1 ratio)Suspension is stock government equipment (NOS springs shackles, etc., etc., etc., etc.)Tires are original Korean war vintage. One is WWII vintage... no I'm not joking. They still work.Equipped with all the good stuff ... 10,000 LB (yeah right) Braden LU4 PTO powered winch with correct hemp lined wire rope, pioneer tool kit with a locking mechanism that I made to keep people honest on the NOS tail gate, fold down troop seats in the bed, correct radio antenna and mount, black out lighting system for convoying in the dark without aircraft seeing you, removable cab top (no canvas), water proof ignition (distributor, plug wires and plugs), waterproof fuel system (Carter ETW-1 carburetor), engine is set up for unleaded fuel and balanced, individual safari windows in the main windshield, fold down windshield, swivel pintle hook, roll down door windows, good glass, good upholstery, etc., etc., etc., etc.Will ford up to 42" of water WITHOUT a fording kit, and above the cab with a fording kit. These weapons carriers were developed in 1950 and used from 1951-1968. After that, they were phased out and replaced by the Kaiser 715 5 1/4 ton truck (Jeep Gladiator).Lots and lots more. This truck is incredible!!!Rides nice and smooth over the roughest wash board roads! No I'm not joking.I regularly drive and start this baby of mine. I don't go far, but it keeps its in great shape. I give this truck a "Very good" rating and not excellent, because it needs paint.I think that a solid weekend and good planning would get this painted perfectly.I have a bunch of extra parts that were never needed, but I purchased them just in case, and they still haven't been needed, such as complete manuals, extra transfer cases (2), carb, little do dads, tow bar for towing, nomenclature (data plates), stencils for the stars, etc., etc,etc,etc.Fluids were regularly changed, and the engine was always warmed up before driving. It now does more sitting than driving even though I still start her and drive her about 3 times a month.The seats have been re-upholstered at least six times so far. Once again they have fresh high density foam and heavy cotton duck.Remember that this is a former Air Force truck that was hardly used, and when it was, it wasn't used hard. You can see my finger pointing at the under coating that is now falling off after almost a quarter century of me applying it. It shows the Air Force Blue. It has three coats of original paint maybe four. It went blue, yellow, blue, and I believe blue a second time.There is a few tiny bubbles in the paint on the edge of the right rear fender were it mounts to the bed. I scraped it off with my pocket knife to show you it’s really light. No holes! Another upgrade was to the winch. Bronze bushings were added to the clutch shaft, so the clutch shaft wouldn't run on the aluminum case, and a duplicate and properly machined steel clutch engagement handle was made and a HARDENED STEEL clutch indexing plate instead of the crappy aluminum that gets wallowed out holes and lets the clutch get destroyed. It’s absolutely sweet! Look at other Lu4 winches and you'll see what I'm talking about. Done right! A quick list of NOS items that were used on the truck are... all four NOS leaf springs (front and back), NOS brake shoe sets all the way around, all NOS wheel bearing grease seals (front and back axles), NOS brake springs (all the way around),NOS front knuckle seal kits/ shim kits, NOS Inner front axle oil seals, bearing kit and NOS seals in the transmission, bearing kit and NOS seal kit for the transfer case, all new NOS U-joints in the front, middle, and rear drive lines + the winch PTO drive shaft, NOS seal kit and bushings in the winch along with the input shaft and drum shaft, NOS complete PTO, NOS seal kit in the steering box, NOS tie rod ends, NOS hackles kits on all the leaf springs, and all NOS shackle bolts and bushings, etc., etc., etc. Also... a NOS TAILGATE! Tail gates are VERY EXPENSIVE and impossible to find for these trucks now. The radiator was disassembled, "rodded out", re-assembled, and pressure tested.When the winch was rebuilt, the aluminum case was fitted with bronze bushing where the clutch engagement shaft rides. All LU4 Braden's have the shaft riding on the aluminum case which is a poor design. An upgraded (copied from original parts) Hardened STEEL clutch indexing plate (clutch IN clutch OUT) was made for the engagement pin, and a winch clutch engagement lever was designed from the original very crude and sloppy cast one. The result was a clutch engagement lever that looks like the original but that is made of steel that uses the original spring loaded knob and indexing pin. This gives the engagement clutch the complete and proper engagement and disengagement it requires during use. The original indexing plate was made of aluminum that would get wallowed out holes and create issues with the clutch. Now when you engage the winch in IN, or OUT mode, it clicks positively in place with a "snap". The winch also received all new threaded studs in all its threaded holes, and a machined top plate was added to replace the stamped sheet steel one that it came with. Done right and all the factory issues are cured.Things added a few things to the truck to keep people honest. Locking door handles, keyed ignition switch, hasps to the tool box doors that look like they are an original part, a chain and lock for the hood (you can't see it), a chain and small lock for the gas cap (looks cool) and a hinged locking bar on the pioneer tool kit that looks like original equipment to keep people from stealing your axe, shovel, and mattock. Which was attempted twice. Didn't work!The engine was completely gone through in typical fashion. It was also balanced! It’s set up with hardened exhaust valve seats for unleaded fuels.The fuel pump isn't original. It’s a NAPA civilian fuel pump. The carb may need to be adjusted for your altitude. It runs great here in NC. This has all the CORRECT PARTS! ... oil bath air cleaner, water proof (screw on) spark plug wires, water proof distributor, Carter ETW-1 carb (original), etc., etc. We have all seen the M37's on eBay that state that everything is "original and correct" yeah right. Last time I checked, M37's were not equipped from the factory with parts that are sold at summit racing and your local auto part store.The ENTIRE MAIN WIRING HARNESS and SUB HARNESSES have been replaced with NOS ones! The NOS wiring harness with its waterproof Douglas connectors was completely coated with plastic dip. The same kind you dip your screw driver handles in. adding this product created a NOS wiring harness that will never rot, and will outlast even you. All sub harnesses (gauge cluster spider, tail lights, marker lights, etc.) received the same treatment. Still flexible after all these years. The gauges are all original except for the Battery/Generator gauge. I replaced it when I swapped in the 24 volt Delco Remy alternator. The new gauge has a plastic lens verses the glass lenses in the other gauges. The speedometer sticks sometimes. Sometimes not. It seems to depend on temperature. Odometer works fine. Other than that, all the gauges work, and work accurately. Added a master cut off switch to the 24 volt battery circuit. Very handy! The high beam/ low beam switch is NOS. The ignition switch and headlight switch are original. You probably notice that I have the truck keys hanging from an ignition switch. This is just to keep people honest. This switch kills the current to the distributor. You still start the truck in the regular fashion with the original foot starter. I have wires running to all four corners or the truck for turn signals. There is a generous amount of wire at all ends and they terminate in a loop of extra wire under the dash. This is there to wire your turn signals. I never added turn signals. I could never find any I liked and absolutely refuse to add big stupid looking, out of place, goofy looking turn signals to my truck. I also refused to drill holes into the top of the fenders to mount them! I've seen way too much of this stuff on M37's offered on eBay. Yuck! I would personally add turn signals to an EXISTING bolt used for the grill, etc. Imagine that! Why drill holes when you don't have too? For me it has to look original, but upgraded for safety without being noticeable. With the advent with all the new LED lights available for cars, trucks, trailers, and especially motorcycles, there are lots of options now available. The batteries are in good shape and tested, just add a "Battery Tender" Brand trickle charger/exerciser under the seat to keep your batteries in good shape during long term storage.The glass is in good shape, and I put NOS window regulators in the doors. The NOS weather strips are now aged from the sun but are still there. The windshield folds down on the hood as it should, and the safari windows pivot out as they should. I have NO CANVAS for this truck! New canvas cab tops are available. "New Life Canvas" sells the canvas cab top for around $430. A bikini top would make sense too. I have the original hooks for the back of the cab that need to be installed. In the bed you will see some partial and incomplete old original bed top bow pieces. These are to be used to copy from and make some new ones. You will need to get bow corners. What you see is what comes with it. No more. What this M37 needs is a fresh paint job inside and out. The floor of the cab and bed was sprayed with "Zolatone" it’s the same paint that a lot of gun safes are sprayed with. It’s extremely durable. Also, the zolatone was clear coated. The zolatone under the clear is still looking good for the most part. There is a catalyzed camo paint I was going to use on the whole truck that is sold by TCP Global. Its Kustom shop Hot Rod Flatz OD green. This paint would be nearly indestructible for a paint, and in my opinion WAY better than anything offered by the vendors that sell military vehicle paints. The color wouldn't be spot on for the purist, but close enough. A gallon kit would do the whole truck with a HVLP spray gun. Its high quality and around $250 shipped. I purchased a quart kit and tested it a few years ago on the cowl and windshield frame. I like it. It’s what you see in the photos. I also still have the star stencils that I made to spray the stars on the hood and doors. They are the CORRECT SIZE per military specifications. Not the goofy incorrect ones I've seen on lots of other military vehicles. There is some tiny bubbling in the paint on the right rear fender where it meets the fender welting. It’s not a hole, and I scraped the paint off with my pocket knife to show you in the photo. The seats have heavy fresh cotton duck over high density foam. I figure that a good solid, well planned weekend or two of drinking beer, BBQ'ing, and prep work along with painting would make this truck look amazing! The fuel tank was in great shape to begin with. To make sure it stayed that it was acid etched on the inside, and lined. Also installed is a NOS fuel sender, which works great and is accurate. The filler neck also retains its original pull out filter screen.I have two spare transfer cases picked up at auction that aren't cheap that also come with it. I purchased them just because. One is from a M37, and one is from a M715. Same transfer case, different yokes. Also technical manuals, jerry cans, tow bar that also fits the military jeep spacing, extra doo dads, other stuff I can't think of, etc. The transfer cases will be crated up well and trapped in the back of the truck. I will UPS everything else to your door at my cost. I don't want to take a chance of manuals, etc. getting wet from rain.If you've always wanted an M37 Weapons Carrier, but didn't have the time or funds to do it properly, then this is for you! This truck is worth way more than I'm asking, and what it needs is mostly cosmetic. A fun truck that gets lots of attention!If you have questions, PLEASE ASK! If you need more photos, please let me know. I'm maxed out on photos in this ad.Help me help you. Don't ask questions after the auction. That doesn't do any good. I'll post some videos of it running and other things on you tube.Clean North Carolina title in my name. I purchased this truck from a friend in Nevada who did most of the restoration and babied this truck. Only (very reluctantly) selling because I have too many projects and not enough room.I prefer a cashier’s check in my name, or direct wire transfer to my bank. Let’s not waste each other’s time. I get paid, and you get the title and truck.This truck is SOLD AS IS. WHERE IS! There is NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED.A $500 PayPal deposit is required at the end of the auction.Buyer responsible for any shipping arrangements. I can of course be there for the truck driver and help load.Shipping an automobile is rather easy. EBay offers shipping services, or you can shop for your own. Delivered to your door! Please... No low ball offers. These trucks are very hard to find in this condition and this complete and well cared for. A good paint job, and this truck would bring twice what I'm asking. Not in a hurry to sell, and don't need the money. Just want it to go to a good home. Good luck and thanks for looking!
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