1966 Dodge Charger 440, very solid driver with some power.

1966 Dodge Charger with a 440! Runs really really well, has been driven a lot in the past three years and is ready for a new owner. Was a daily driven car during all of 2021, so many of the kinks you are going to find with older cars have been worked out here. This car is for sale by the owner (me) not a dealer or a classic car broker. This Charger is unrestored but has been repainted (was originally a red car), has a few performance upgrades
Has a built 7.2 Liter 440 V8 engine, Holley 4 barrel carb, aluminum Weiand intake manifold, birchwood carb spacer (reduces heat soak for easy restarting when hot), older Hedman headers, a B&M Megashifter, 727 Torqueflight 3 speed automatic transmission with ashift kit and 3500 stall converter, 8 3/4" rear end with 391 gears, Mopar electronic ignition with a Flamethrower coil, FBO ignition controller, adjustable mechanical advance limiting plate, and FBO vacuum advance can. Specs on camshaft are unknown but it's definitely a long duration, high overlap racing cam, not just a "lumpy" sounding mild cam. Older dual exhaust with removable side cutouts behind front wheels. Exhaust is in good shape. Manual drum brakes all around in very good condition, car stops really really well, doesn't pull or pulse. Wheels are reproduction 15" Mopar Police wheels by Wheel Vintiques, with Cooper Cobra 295s on the rear, 205s(?) up front. Tires are in great shape. Has a new Redhead steering gear, handles about as well as an old B body can. The Summit Racing shocks are older, but are still good.Has (original, not reproduction) Dodge redline stainless steel poverty caps, with stainless lugnuts underneath. Looks good with or without the caps. Car was originally red with a 318 V8. The stamp on the 440 in it now indicates it is a 1966 block (nice coincidence). Car does have the heavier torsion bars and the larger radiator appropriate for the 440. The 440 has been in the car since the 90's and is still going strong.
Body work and paint are recent, done in 2020. Car had some rust cut out from quarter panels and rockers and was replaced with new sheet metal. A few other very mild dings fixed, but no other significant dents or body damage on the car. Car has been driven a lot since so there are rock chips and imperfections. Some small spots of primer are showing where I struggled to attach the trim to the front fenders. Needs touching up. Carpet is worn and faded. Floors are very solid, frame is very solid and clean. Front seats were recovered at some point, some cracking in the vinyl of the rear seats.
Interior of trunk has never been painted, is still red, and solid.
Story with the car as far as I can put together: Someone had a very aggressive motor built for it in the early 90's and was racing it for a while, somewhere in New England. When I got it it had slicks on it, the old ratchet shifter that had been pretty well abused, 410 gears in the rear end, a Sun Supertach on the steering column, etc. Car was parked at some point in the 2000's and was covered with red oxide primer, which probably saved it from rusting. I'm guessing it was parked indoors on concrete because the frame is very very clean. The next owner tried to get the car going again around 2016 or 2017 or so, but I think they failed to realize it had a large cam, or what that implied. They said it idled rough and they couldn't get the brakes to work and they were giving up on it. Both of these are due to the large racing cam- insufficient manifold vacuum to operate a brake booster, and big cams are supposed to run rough, especially when they are cold and don't have a modern ignition system. I took the power brake booster off and put a new dual reservoir master cylinder on it for a improved safety. Drum brakes were all new, so I adjusted them, replaced the wheel cylinders, wheel bearings were repacked, and the car rolls and stops great. Has newer all steel brake lines throughout the car.
Engine runs very strong, but the ignition system did need upgrades to get it happy at idle. I went with the FBO ignition modifications to the existing Mopar electronic distributor. The FBO setup has an external ignition controller with adjustable rev limiter, and is paired with a Flamethrower ignition coil. The mechanical advance limiter plate is installed inside the distributor and allows you to adjust it to your application. I put on a brand new Holley 4150 750 CFM double pumper carburetor, which allowed for some fine tuning as well. Steering was a little loose so I put a Redhead steering gear on. I replaced the 410 gearing with 391 gears (still has a lot get up and go, but now it isn't screaming on the highway), put a new B&M Megashifter in (which works great- you can ratchet the gears almost like a manual if you like, or just put it in drive and go like a regular automatic). I put in a new fuel tank and sending unit, tossed the janky electric fuel pump and put a new mechanical fuel pump in. NGK plugs, Taylor wires, and she runs and drives really really well. Lots of power, sounds amazing, and idles steady, kind of a tricky balance with a big block/big cam car. I've driven this car a lot. The last thing I did was replace the dash harness, since there was 5 decades of hacked wires under there. So nice clean wiring under there now. The gauges do not work. Car comes with a new instrument cluster, not sure if it works either. No radio. Car has a very cool radio delete plate. Running lights, brakes, parking lights, brake lights, rear courtesy light, and turn signals all work.
Body work was done in 2020 and in my opinion was done really really well. The paint over it is very decent, but not a $10,000 show quality paint job. This was a car for me to drive, not something I wanted to baby. It is Chrysler SS-1 Paint code (it is "cream," not yellow). Because of the body work it would be reasonably easy to repaint the car back to it's original red, or whatever you want (satin black, if I were you).
What it still could use: New Bumpers! The good news is they are included. Reverse lights are not connected. The front seat courtesy lights (on the side of the shifter housing) are missing internal hardware so they don't work (the rear courtesy lights on the C pillars do work). Hideaway headlights do not operate (this is the case for most almost all first generation Chargers out there, you just have rotate them by hand to open the lights).The headlight motors and limit switches are all there and intact, so go down that rabbit hole if you are smarter than me (new relays are included; from what I understand that is the problem most of the time).Gauges don't work or light up, but the electroluminescent lightning does work when bench tested. There is an aftermarket fuel gauge installed, but no other gauges are operating. Car used to have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge but I disconnected at some point it and never reconnected it. Car leaks a little oil and a very tiny amount of power steering fluid. When I replaced the dash harness something happened to the heater control lever behind the dash and now it rattles when you are accelerating. Luckily, the car comes with another heater control box that you can swap out if you need it :). The heater core/heat does work fine!
One piece of trim on the drivers side is incorrect. The long piece of rear quarter panel trim that goes on top of the rear fender terminates right behind the door panel with a little tapered piece of aluminum that is very hard to find. I had an extra piece of fender trim so I just cut it to fit, extending the fender trim so it looks complete-a little hard to explain. Contact me for a photo if you want. The "440" fender badges are incorrect for 1966. There were zero 440 Chargers built 1966, so to acknowledge that I used the wrong 440 emblems on purpose (judge me if you like; I think they are off a 69 Coronet). The wheel-well trim and rocker panel chrome are both included-I just like the look of the car without those pieces so I never put them on after painting. Interior could use new carpet and some love. There is one crack in the dash, and the door cards have some imperfections/cracks in the vinyl but they aren't terrible. Cardboard glove box insert has been removed for easy access to dash wiring, and has some tears in it. But it is included. Only has one of the two defrost/heat hoses connected under the dash; the other is missing.
Extras it comes with: Two good chrome bumpers! the bumpers on this car are UGLY so that is a good thing. The (impossible to find) rocker panel chrome pieces and aluminum wheelwell trim, extra hood emblem, extra grill with a couple of flaws, the original V8 Fender badges, a heater control, original floor shifter and linkage, and shifter cover, original fuel sending unit, various other parts are all included. An extra instrument cluster/gauges with bezel, replacement headlamp motor relays (to get the hideaway headlights working if that's your goal), random service records going back to the 90s, a Chrysler service manual, and a vintage Mopar Performance hat that has been in the trunk from since the 90's are all included.
In summary, this is a mostly original, almost complete, fully driving unrestored car with great running older race engine and decent street manners. With a little work you have a good looking and very aggressive cruiser, or a fun street-strip car.

I have a good reliable shipper I am happy to connect you with. Figure roughly $1250 from Chicago to California, just for reference.
I think this is a pretty comprehensive description but feel free to contact me through Ebay Messages with questions.
Walk around video of car running.https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/814065211