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FAQ1966 Ford Mustang Restomod Big Block
| Condition: | Used |
| Make: | Ford |
| Model: | Mustang |
| Type: | Coupe |
| Trim: | Coupe |
| Year: | 1966 |
| Mileage: | 157 |
| VIN: | 6T07T179974 |
| Color: | Pepper Grey Metallic |
| Engine: | 428 |
| Cylinders: | 8 |
| Fuel: | Gasoline |
| Transmission: | Manual |
| Drive type: | RWD |
| Interior color: | Black |
| Vehicle Title: | Clear |
| Item location: | Pulaski, Virginia, United States |
| Extras |
| Listed by |
| Private seller |
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Description of 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe |
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PLEASE READ!!!!! I've had this car since the Spring of 1996 and have a lot of sentimental attachment to it, hence why I want to share my story. I never planned on selling this car, but now with 2 son's of my own I don't want to take any chances with them when they are old enough to drive and taking "Dad's car out for a drive". This is a really fast car and a hand full on the street. This is not your Grandfather's car, this is a purpose built car, it is loud, it is fast, and it will hurt you if you do not respect it.. Please do not buy this car for a teenager, the driver needs to be responsible. This car does not have a heater, it has manual brakes, manual steering, and is built to do a couple things, look good, sound good, and go fast. The car has been in my garage since 1996, never in the rain (dangerous as a cocked gun in the rain I imagine), and I completed the restomod in 2008. That being said, the car looks awesome, as you can see in the pictures, but it is not perfect, there are some scratches, etc from sitting in my garage, but is does look really good, considering the paint is 9 years old, lol. I never installed the headliner in the car (I have a new one in the box, just never put it in), it will go with the car, along with the bottom billet grille (I like just the grille in the top and open at the racing apron like in the pictures). Anyway, Ebay would only allow 24 pictures, I have plenty more. If you are serious, send me a note and I can send more. I have a very busy work schedule and home life, so please only request additional pictures if you are serious about buying the car. Please read my story below and the specs listed at the bottom. I'm sure, I've missed some things, but I've tried to put down what I can remember. Anyway, enjoy and happy bidding. The car was purchased with the sole purpose to build an early model Mustang (1964.5 - 66) with a FE Big Block under the hood, all while looking stock (not cut up). At this point in my life (1996), I had never came across an early Mustang with a true big block (without being cut up, shock towers removed, rack and pinion steering, etc.), they were all 6 bangers, 260's, 289's, 302's, and the occasional 351 Windsor at the car shows, local cruise in's, and magazines. Of course someone could always punch out and stroke a 351 to a 427, but that wasn't the point. The point was to see the big block iron under the hood, hear the iconic FE thump, and confuse the heck out of the Ford guys (who knew that engine couldn't fit in that car). My research was ahead of me, but I knew it could be done, so I bought this car as a roller and began the journey. The shock towers on a 1964.5-66 are 25 3/8" wide (just wide enough for that 351W), however in 1967, I discovered Ford widened the shock towers to 28 5/8" to accommodate the big FE. Next, I discovered the firewall and frame rails didn't change through 1970, however the inner fenders did. So I set out to find a donor. A Mustang junkyard was about 1.5 hours from my house, one Saturday in the early Spring of 1997 I paid them a visit. After walking almost every inch of that hillside (covered in 1964.5 - 1970 Mustangs), there she was..... A 1968 S-Code (390 Car), just a roller. The front end was in perfect condition, so the owner of the junkyard and I made a deal. I then asked him for a saw. He looked at me like I was crazy, but said sure. I proceeded to cut the car in half, at the A-Pillars, across the rocker panels and floor boards, just AFT of the end of the frame rails. I took off the fenders, hood, and doors, then pulled the car apart. I told the junkyard owner "thank you for your business" and proceeded to tell him, he could keep the rest of the car all I needed was the front. He laughed and said "Thanks" and good luck with that big block early model Mustang. I then meticulously measured and measured, and measured again before I began cutting my car apart to start the transformation. While tearing down the front end, I went ahead and replaced the entire cowl (183 spot-welds from what I recall) on the 66'. I proceeded to prime, paint, and seam seal the inner cowl, then covered with plastic until one day when I decided to paint the car (I despise looking into a cowl of a restored car and seeing trash in there) I could remove the plastic and reveal a beautiful inner cowl beneath. I went ahead and replaced almost all the sheet-metal under the car so everything would be structurally sound for the torque monster when it was placed. I divorced the 68' inner front clip, measured, measured, and measured, then proceeded to marry the 68' inner clip to the 66' body. Everything fit as it should, just had a height difference on the inner fenders, where the outer fenders mount, but that was easily solved, the unthinkable had been accomplished and now I had the torque boxes from the 68' welded solid from the rocker panels to the frame rails.... Next was the search for the engine. Being a gear head and having a best friend that owned the local Ford dealership, the word went out quickly that I was building a big block early model Mustang. One of the insurance adjusters that did business with the dealership's body shop found out I was in need of a FE. He contacted me and said, he thought he had what I was looking for.... He had just purchased a 1957 2 door pro street Ford from the autofair in Charlotte, 2 months prior that had a 428 in it. He explained he had built another engine for the car, before he had purchased it, because FE are expensive to build, lol. Anyway, he invited me to his house to drive the car. When I arrived, if it ran and didn't smoke, I was game, lol. When I arrived he fired it up, the ground thumped, oil pressure was high, and I said I'll take it. He insisted he would not sell me the engine, without driving it, I said OK. We drove down this winding back road talking about cars, etc, then he opened her up, WOW, I was pinned. Needless to so, I was itching to get back to the shop and pluck this beast. When we got back to the shop, he said "I think I'm making a mistake", I just continued wrenching and hooking the cherry picker. He kept repeating that, until the engine was about eye level, then he said "I know I'm making a mistake". I saw what he was talking about, the freeze plugs were brand new, that engine had just been put together before he bought the car! I proceeded to place the engine in the back of my truck, handed him the cash and headed back home. It took 2 days to set that beast down in my little Mustang. I'll never forget when I fired her up for the first time. A 2600 lb car, with a monster under the hood. Since then, I completed the restoration in 2008 and cruise the Mustang around to local car shows and cruise in's, always getting the same reaction from the Ford guys "how did you get that engine in that car", scratching their heads. Typically, I just grin a little and say "it wasn't easy, but it is fun". Make: Ford Model: Mustang Year: 1966 Odometer: 157 mi Engine:
Fuel:
Ignition:
Exhaust:
Transmission:
o 1st: 2.87 o 2nd: 1.89 o 3rd: 1.28 o 4th: 1.00 o 5th: 0.64 o Reverse: 2.56
Rear Axle:
Brakes:
o Ford 11" Disk o Ford Calipers o New Brake Lines
o Ford 11" Disk with integrated Park Brake o Ford Racing Calipers o Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines Suspension:
o Ford Racing 1" Drop Coil Springs o Koni Shocks o Moog and Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings
o Ford 1" Drop Leaf Springs o Koni Shocks o Custom Ladder Bar Traction Bars o Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings Wheels:
o American Racing Torque Thrust II o Polished Aluminum o 17x8
o American Racing Torque Thrust II o Polished Aluminum o 17x8 Tires:
o Goodyear Eagle GS-D (Z-Rated) o 215/45ZR17
o Goodyear Eagle HP (Z-Rated) o 245/45ZR17 Electrical:
Gauges:
o Fuel o Ammeter o Oil Pressure o Water Temperature o Speedometer o Tachometer Chassis:
Body:
Interior:
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