1926 Ford Model T Lots of work done Storage and financing until Spring

Make:	Ford
Model:	Model T
Type:	U/K
Trim:	Base
Year:	1926
Mileage:	77,777
Color:	Yellow
Fuel:	Gasoline
Drive type:	U/K
Interior color:	Black
Vehicle Title:	Clear
Item location:	Mishawaka, Indiana, United States

Extras

Convertible

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Private seller

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Description of 1926 Ford Model T

Very nice 1926 Model T. I really enjoy working on these great classic cars and getting them in good shape again. After f working on many different classic cars. I have settled on the Model T and A series cars. Why ? They are very easy to get parts for. inexpensive to drive and restore. lots of club support and of course are fun attention getters. These are great cars I enjoy working on them and learning about them. They are supported by a huge amount of parts and suppliers at low cost. The Model T Ford Club of America web forum has helped me and many others fix. trouble shoot and learn about these cars. And they are a hoot to drive. Web site links are at the bottom of the listing Repair manuals. parts books. some period tools. lots of printed information and a CD m of info included. First. this car was brought up from Ocala Florida. where it had been stored dry inside for decades. Very little light surface rust on the undersides in small areas. It had a small line of rust beneath both doors and in a 3 inch spot on the right rear lower deck of the trunk It had low compression on the engine and would not start There is a picture of it after about a year of work with primer on it I will list what I have done; the good points. and then list every known defect. This car now starts and runs well on battery and magneto. will hand crank start easily. All light are bright. 6 volt system redone so it works very well. What I have done and added parts To trouble shoot to make a car run well you need good compression. good spark and good fuel flow. I fixed all three. I Took off the head. did a valve lap. measured piston bores - they are standard and have not been bored over sized. No damage or scuffs on the cylinder walls . Honed the piston cylinders. fitted new piston rings with exact ring gaps and proper ring gap offset to the piston on installation to improve compression. Compressions now measures a strong 55 PSI . Installed rebuilt NH carburetor from Lang’s New head and manifold gaskets and gland rings Replaced exhaust manifold as old threads to fit the muffler packing nut were wornNew muffler and muffler pipe bright new metalFor the electrical system. checked magneto. pulled magneto plug and cleaned it. Magneto puts out strong AC voltage Installed the new expensive TW timer ( DO NOT OIL !!) Installed all new wiring harnesses. Cleaned coil box. Replaced all coils with rebuilt coils by Ron Patterson and Brent Mize. New spark plug wires Has the Old take apart Champion X spark plugs Had the starter taken off and inspected. ( I can not remember but I believe they cleaned lubricated and replaced brushes - it may have been rebuilt with new bearing and seals but I can not find the paper work on this ) Installed new battery. battery box. new negative ground strap. I had old time local auto alternator shop make heavy gauge 0 long starter cable which carries great power to the starter from the battery It is about 2 feet longer than necessary Please note. the new battery sits about 3 inches above the floor of the trunk while the old smaller battery I replaced sat flush with the trunk deck and had a wooden door above it (included) Ground down grounding spots for the battery connections and starter switches to get great power not weak power to the starter Removed. cleaned. painted and installed all new hardware. connections and reflectors in the head lights New wiring Removed and cleaned ignition switch and starter switch Removed all tires. Cleaned and painted tire rims. Then Inspected then cleaned and painted wood wheels also cleaned and inspected hidden inside rims of wooden wheels Installed replacement wheels and tires where required. One tire is brand new with the rubber studs showing Sanded. primed car Cut out band of rust. beneath doors treated with rust stop. primer. then bondo primer and paint Repainted car from a mustard yellow to a light yellow Installed engine whistle. Kids love to pull the cord while driving to hear it whistle. Took off and cleaned radiator with vinegar for a week then flushed. I also put the copper sealant in the water with anti freeze Cleaned inside of engine block of years of sediment for improved cooling now. ( really full of yellow caked material ) installed new old stock correct radiator pipe and hoses (red) Top and frame appear to be a newer replacement. strong frame. top appears to be in very nice condition Drained and replaced differential oil with proper 600 weight oil (some included with car) Lots more work I have forgotten Removed cleaned and replaced all head lamp parts with new except the retainer screen. Bright new reflectors. Light is properly grounded for reliable operation. Both low and high beams work fine. Defects Spare tire is good but on the inside out of view two patches of sidewall had come loose. (about ¼ inch by 3 inches) I glued them back It us a good tire but does have that inside defect Front windshields lower one has a vertical crack. Windshields should be checked and replaced with safety glass if it is not already safety glass Left rear brake replaced as it had no brake installed . No leakage from rear seals. Brake will be tight for 40-50 miles. Needs to be driven slow for 10 minutes at a time until brake gets hot to wear it in before long trips This for a short period will cause a drag on performance when engaging the drive clutch and reverse. as it acts as thought you will be also trying to engage the brake. The car did have a rust stripe along the bottom body beneath both doors and a 3 inch lower spot on the right rear trunk body. This repair work shows if you look hard and is noticeable. It should be re sanded and minor contour work redone for show I have included the professional auto paint (yellow) along with the formulation of the yellow paint for future use. Also included the brown tan paint for the wooden wheel spokes for touch up The paint on the wooden wheel spokes where it fits to the steel wheels needs to be retouched with an artist brush. My hands shake and it is not perfect. I do not like the floor boards. I will include replacement boards or send you the retail price for replacement floor boards from MAC's or Snyders Included is a new AOOGH horn but it is not wired and mounted. The horn button and wiring are intact. Wiring to the head lamps is new with all new hardware. I did not cut off the wires to make them shorter so you can have the wiring length to reroute wire if you wish. Tail light is a modern 6 volt larger non period light for safety vs. the 3 inch round period light Extra 1156 6 volt bulbs included Metal wheel hub covers three are brushed bright metal and not new chrome New carb has some yellow paint over spray on it All new wiring to the rear tail light. for show should have the three wires encased in a black flexible tube I have included 2 rear magnetic tail lights LED very bright for night safety can be set to be on steady. blink. blink in a repeating pattern and have two each down pointing laser lights to help keep cars from hitting you at night These come right off (magnets) What has not been done The rear differential has not been taken apart and inspected for thrust washer wear. It does not leak and seems to be operating fine. The hogs head of the transmission has not been taken off to inspect the condition of the transmission drums. The toe in of the front tires has not been checked. again seems to be fine I will be available to answer any questions and offer advice to the new owner. If you live close. I can help assist in any adjustments Here are some great web sites to support the Model T. As I said. after working on many different models of classic cars. I have gravitated to the Model T and some Model A’s because They are well built. and simple easy to work on. Parts are inexpensive and readily available from not new stock rebuilt parts and on Ebay. Henry Ford insisted any part for any year fit any car. Therefore a generator from say 1917 will fit a 1927 The web site club forums have helped me out so well. Just Google a question on any aspect or problem with a Model T in this format “MTFCA my Model T Ford will not start” or any other question. You will get scores of answers and offers to help. There are Model T Clubs in many places with members to teach and help Tours are great fun throughout the United States Web sites Model T Ford Club of America. information. clubs and forum for education and answers http://www. mtfca. com/ Model T Ford International http://www. modelt. org/ Model T Ford Net http://www. fordmodelt. net/ The History Channel Model T http://www. history. com/topics/model-t For shipping. I recommend you investigate getting bids via USHIP. Truckers bid on shipping this car and it links to the eBay listing and adds a picture of the car to the Uship bid. It was about 400 dollars to ship this car from Florida to north Indiana as an example I need the funds to help out my Son injured in the Navy so if the car sells and you are short on cash. I can take half down and the remainder on delivery up to 6 months from now to get him some cash. I can store this car for free inside for 3 months ( a $ 300 value) My cost to store (100 a month) after that for up to 6 months total until Spring 2015 I will keep the car insured during this time until picked up I will not be available for 10 days around Christmas for delivery img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4894-1. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4894-1. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4667-1. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4667-1. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4662. jpg" border="0" alt="Champion X plugs photo 100_4662. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/a5f6cb37-e360-4d60-b4b2-a63b721d9b1a. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo a5f6cb37-e360-4d60-b4b2-a63b721d9b1a. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/IMGP1369. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMGP1369. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4923. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4923. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4927. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4927. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4920. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4920. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4911. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4911. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4910. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4910. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4910. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4910. jpg"/> img src="http://i1227. photobucket. com/albums/ee430/dakriegel/1926%20Yellow%20Ford%20Model%20T/100_4905. jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_4905. jpg"/> On Dec-02-14 at 10:04:00 PST. seller added the following information:The VIN number is 13021127