Porsche. 914 1.7L Built Restored and Modified for Autocross / Daily Driver

It can easily be an every day “Daily Driver”, ut in reality it is a “Garage Queen” for me.

This is a PERFECT car for someone who wants a Highly Modified and Restored 914, ut wants to choose their own Engine and Paint Color -and does not want to go through the pain, uffering, rustration, orking out the “Bugs” and the time and expense of doingthe modificationsyourself.

To make a long story short…..

I did Everything possible to improve the performance/handling using the best possible parts

(one example is the use of Hollow Torsion Bars – at much greater expense – than the solid units. Another example is Cryo Treated Slotted Brake Rotors instead of just slotted rotors)

Also, ou can get in it and drive cross country without worrying if something will break down. It is “Good to Go”

My “Ground Rules” when building this car was for it to look “stock” – the one exception being wheels.

Stock Porsche wheels would have “performance limitations” due to the higher profile tires of the era.

It really wasn’t that bad restoring it, ecause doing that was my hobby. Anyone who has built a car before can understand that.

This project started on 3-29-2000.

I have a detailed Spread Sheet of EVERYTHING Done on this project including dates, rices, art numbers, endors, iagrams, chematics, iring diagrams, escriptions and receipts (in a Loose-Leaf binder)

The Reason I am Selling It…..

My Other Car was a Highly Modified 1982 Mazda RX-7 and I recently sold it also on Ebay to someone in Sweeden.

Cars have been my primary hobby for over 30 years. I never thought I would sell either one of my cars. I built them both assuming I would Keep Them Forever.

But……

Things change, nd I no longer want or need any “Specialty” cars.

I have a Toyota that gets 40mpg that I use to commute. I now live in Mexico, ut I have a hotel on the U.S. Side where I keep my cars and some furniture – and get a few more hours of sleep before work.

I plan to exclusively live in Mexico in a year or so – and I do not plan to take anything more with me, o I have some time to find a buyer for this 914 – pretty much my last possession to sell.

To start with, looked at 14 914’s before I found one with almost no rust. That was where the Project Started.

I then stripped it down as much as possible so I could find the rest of the rust, nd luckily – there was no other rust problems than the two spots I already knew about. They Were Repaired Professionally.

I then started to put the car back together in a way that I would not need to do another restoration in the future.

Before I Started the 914 Restoration, drove it for a few weeks.

The Brakes were so bad, t was scary.

It shifted so bad, thought something must be wrong.

All the others I test drove were the same way or worse and I wondered about that.

I took it to a Porsche shop that works on many 914’s and they said “The Shifting and Brakes on the car are normal and are actually very good”. (My highly modified RX-7 spoiled me)

Luckily there was a fix for both those problems, ecause those problems are so unacceptable – I would not want to drive a factory stock 914..

The Restoration:

The Details are in the spread sheet, elow are some of the Highlights

The Brakes:

All 4 Brake Rotors were NEW, ryogenically treated, lotted.

Of Course All Wheel Bearings, eals, arger Master Cylinder, rake Lines, luid Reservoir and ALL other brake parts were NEW also.

Front Calipers were replaced with NEW BMW320i Calipers and Pads.

These BMW Calipers are 30% Larger than the Stock 914’s, o the Rear Brake Proportioning Valve was removed and replaced with a “T”.

(The “Front to Rear” braking ratio is very close to stock, ven without the Brake Proportioning Valve, ecause of the larger front calipers.)

Rear Calipers were Completely and Properly Rebuilt, ith NEW Pads all around of course.

The Emergency Brake works Perfectly (A rare thing for a 914)

All Brake Lines were replaced with Steel Braided Teflon Lines.

The Stock 17mm Brake Master Cylinder was replaced with a NEW 19mm Unit. Even the Fluid Reservoir and the Fluid Lines to the Brake Master Cyllinder were replaced with new parts.

The Brakes are Completely Done and they are GREAT.

The 914 “Brake Problem” was Completely Solved.

Transmission and Shift Linkage:

The Shifting was “914 Normal”, ut totally unacceptable to me – I was use to modern Japanese Cars with Tight Precise Shifting.

I Started restoration by converting from a Tail Shift Tranny to a Side Shift.

Internally to the Tranny I wanted EVERYTHING to be NEW. The Rebuilder convinced me that all the Gears were near perfect and it would be silly to change them. EVERYTHING Else Was replaced (One of the hard to find bearings was $500 by itself)

Critical Components were Magnafluxed to look for stress/strain points.

Patrick Motorsports Did the Transmission Rebuild. They were expensive – but I don’t do Trannys and I wanted it done correctly.

They also make a custom Shifting Linkage for their Race Cars that is Truly a Beautiful Piece, o Bushings to Wear Out.

I Can’t Imagine Why Porsche did not do it that way.

Rebuilding The Tranny and Installing the Linkage cost $8K JUST FOR THE TRANNY AND LINKAGE.

The Tranny was built with a “Beefy Intermediate Plate” which makes it good to 300HP.

I planned to put a Mazda Rotary engine in it – but I started “giving up on the car hobby” before I got to the engine upgrade.

Short Shifter Kit Installed.

This is typically a bad thing to do with a stock linkage because it magnifies problems with “slop”, ut with this tight and precise Patrick Motorsports Linkage – it is a big improvement in shifting feel and enjoyment.

Shifting is no longer like “Rowing a Boat” - as on a stock 914

Drive Train

The stock “Open” Differential (in the tranny) was replaced by a NEW Quaiffe “Torsen” Differential.

The rear CV Axles were replaced with NEW Units along with ALL the Hardware.

The original plastic Clutch Cable Idler Pulley was replaced by a stronger unit that does not flex - eliminating clutch slop.

The Tunnel.

This is a horrible place to do anything!! It is a very tight space with almost no access. It often has rust. Mine only had mild surface rust – perfect for a POR-15 treatment.

The Tunnel is now good for the rest of the 914’s life – it is

coated with POR 15 internally.

Also in the Tunnel is the Fuel Lines. I got the best German Fuel Line I could get and replaced the old fuel lines.

The Tunnel is Finished – you will never need to worry about it again.

Gas Tank

I Removed The Gas Tank, ad it cleaned and coated on the Inside, nd Powder Coated on the Outside.

I Removed some Surface Rust from the Gas Tank Pocket and painted it.

Front Sway Bar

While the Gas Tank was out, installed a Front Sway Bar

(21mm High Performance Hollow Front Sway Bar, olted on, hen Welded)

This was a very hard job even though it looked easy. But the good part is – it is done and you never need to remove the gas tank for any reason ever again.

Fuel Delivery System

I will never understand the ridiculous Factory Porsche Fuel Pump and the nest of fuel lines blowing in the wind under the engine.

I replaced the Leaking Porsche Pump with a Walbro (What I have been using in my RX-7 for years).

Now the Pump, ilters and Fuel Lines are neatly mounted along the Firewall and no more hoses hanging through the air.

ALL Fuel Lines were NEW.

Air Handeling System

In the Cowl Area where the Blower and the Air Manifolds are…..

That was all removed, leaned and repaired – that nightmare area will not need attention for the next 20 years.

While I was suffering in there I also rebuilt the Wiper Linkage, otor and assembly, nd the blower motor too.

Another thing you will be happy to never need to do.

Foot Pedals And Controls

Of Course a new Clutch and Accelerator Cable was Installed as well as taking apart and rebuilding (With NEW Parts) the Pedal Cluster. This was also a very difficult and time consuming thing to do.

The Rotting Wood Cover for that area was replaced by a new Aluminum Piece. You no longer need to feel like your feet will go through the floorboard, t now feels rigid and can never rot out.

Windows

Power Windows were installed. A nice comfort that did not really add any additional weight.

Wheels:

TTRS Racing: Revolution RZX 17” X 7” wheels with 4 good condition Dunlop Performance tires.

These wheels enabled the use of low profile tires for better handling, nd also 2 inches less diameter than stock tires – lowering the car 1 inch with no suspension geometry penalty.

Chassis:

When All Rust was Removed (Under the Battery Tray), Chassis Stiffening Kit was installed (Welded On)

Then The Underside of the car was Coated.

Steering/Suspension

- 911 Turbo Tie Rods were installed.

- Steering Rack Lowering Kit. (3/4 inch lower without ANY suspension/steering geometry changes) for a total of 1 ¾ inch lower than stock – with ZERO negative effects on suspension geometry.

- Stiffer Front Hollow Torsion Bars.

- Front and Rear Koni Yellow Sport Shocks

- NEW Front Struts (Improved part used on later year 914’s)

- Boxed and Powder Coated Swing Arms.

- Powder Coated A-Arms.

- New Rear Springs 140#.

- ALL Suspension Rubber replaced by Delrin

- ALL less than perfect Steering Linkage Parts Replaced.

Interior:

- New Seats from Renegade Hybrids.

- New Carpet – The Best I could Find - $600 for Material Only.

- New Door Panel Covering.

- New Dash Cover

Engine:

It is a stock 1.7L with good compression. The Engine is functional and reliable along with the stock Fuel Injection

The engine was one of the two areas I did not address yet in the restoration – because it was working fine and the priority for change was low.

Exterior

The other area not yet addressed is Exterior Paint – if it was me I would paint it.

Now I’m glad I didn’t yet address these two points because the buyer can pick the color and engine he wants – or he can just drive it as is until a decision is made.

Other Exterior:

- The Roof was Recently Re-Done.

- Rear PORSCHE Reflector was installed.

- The Expensive and hard to find Roof Seal (Rear Of Roof) was replaced, o no more squeaking.

- Most Door Window Seals Replaced.

- Many Other Rubber Body Seals Replaced.

- Antennae Hole of Front Fender Filled in and ready for final sanding.

- All 4 Targa Top Latches are there as well as the 4 supports (to store the Top) in the Rear Trunk – and all work fine.

- The Two “Dents” in the car door were repaired and ready for final sanding.

- Odyssey Battery (A $300 Battery) Relocated to the Rear trunk With Battery Isolation Switch. I wanted to move the Battery to the Front Trunk, ut Running Heavy Cable (In a pretty and neat way) was too big a project at the time. Since Then I ran Heavy Gauge Wires to the Front Trunk (in a very pretty and neat way). At this point, ust mounting the Battery in the Front Trunk is all that is needed, t probably would be a slight handling improvement by shifting more weight up front.

Add Up what it would cost you to put a car like this together.

My Receipts add up to $34K and I did almost all the work myself

The Cost Of The Re-Built and “beefed-up” Tranny, inkage and Interior Of the Car is approximately the Starting Price Of This Auction.

Actually, n just the last 8 years I have put over $20K in to this car.

I say “new” in many of the above descriptions. Let me explain..

The First few years of the project was repairing the rust, he gas tank area restoration, ir handling system restoration and things like making the doors, indows, ipers, eadlights and front and rear trunk working properly.

The Transmission, inkage, otal Suspension and Drive Train, nterior, eats, arpet, eals and Roof were done about 8 years ago.

I call all of this “new” because there is certainly less than 5000 miles on these parts. And until the last 6 months, he car was stored in a garage. Now it is in a parking lot with a Car Cover (Also Included)

I almost always drove my RX-7.

So I estimate 5000 miles AT MOST on the parts I call “New”.

I have no idea how many miles are on the car. When I bought it the speedometer was broken. It didn’t matter to me because I would replace EVERYTHING with “new parts” anyway.

The Speedometer was not yet replaced – it still does not work.

But – Already installed and attached to the Tranny is a Sender unit (about $150) for an Electronic Speedometer.

I planned on replacing all dash instruments with modern ones, he buyer can decide if he wants to also do this or keep it stock looking inside. All instruments and warning lights work - except for the speedometer.

I also Permanently installed a Cyllinder Head Temperature Gage along with a Voltmeter – Essential instruments that the 914 did not have.

It’s a BLAST To Drive!!

When I took it for a valve adjustment last year the mechanic said “I’m a 911 guy and typically don’t like 914’s – but yours feels incredible to drive”

Some Highlights:

- Chassis Stiffining Kit.

- New Renegade Hybrid Modified 914 Seats.

- Dash Cover

- Haargarn Carpet / Mats (about $600 for material – the best carpet I could Find)

- Power Windows

- NEW Ignition Lock

- Boxed / Powder-coated Trailing Arms

- NEW Later Model Front Struts

- ALL New Suspension Bushings

- NEW Rear Axles / Hardware

- NEW Springs / Shocks / Torsion Bars

- COMPLETELY Rebuilt tranny (even the hard to get $500 Bearing)

- Beefy Transmission Intermediate Plate to handle more power.

- Torsen Differential

- Cryo Treated / slotted Brake Discs

- Jack Hole Covers (Usually missing on 914’s)

- New Clutch / Accelerator Cable

- 912E Alternator (70A) and Regulator (More Available Power for Power Windows, Future Car Stereo, igh Performance Ignitions or other engine goodies, he stock 35A alternator would not handle that)

- Restored Roof

- BMW Front Brake Calipers, teel Braided Break Lines, emoved Proportioning Valve, 9mm Master Cyllinder, ompletely restored rear Calipers.

- Two Working and Properly Adjusted Sun Visors

- A 914 with OUTSTANDING Brakes, ETTER Brakes than my RX-7 had.

- Emergency Break Functions perfectly.

- Completely New Shifter Linkage – an $800 kit from Partick Motorsports.

- Excellent Shifting

- Short Shift kit. (This is a Bad thing if the linkage is “stock”, ut with the much tighter Patrick Motorsports Linkage – The shifting is VERY Good)

- 911 Turbo Tie Rods

- Fuel Tank restored / Internally Coated / Externally Powder coated.

- Fuel Tank Pocket Checked For Rust (None) and coated with Rust-olium (actually – a perfect color match).

- Front Sway Bar Installed

- Odyssey Battery relocated with Battery disconnect switch

- Installed a “Good” Fuel Pump and routed Fuel Lines / Filters in a more safe / orderly way

- Petronix Ignition – no more points

- Fuel Injection Points are new as well (I didn’t even know they existed until I got stranded when I first got the car).

- Dash Top Mounted Cylinder Head Temp Gage

- Dash Mounted Voltmeter Gage

- Two Side View Mirrors

- All P O R S C H E Letters on Engine Lid

- Porsche Badge on Front Trunk

- Restored Pedal assembly (Major Pain to do that)

- Aluminum Floor Board – (replaced wood under pedals)

- Restored Blower Fan

- Restored Wiper assembly

- Rollers on the rear trunk torsion bars for smoother Rear trunk operation.

- Cable installed for cockpit rear trunk release.

- Restored Air Handling System

- Many of the “Rubber” Seals on the body have been replaced, ncluding the rear roof rubber piece.

- 17” Wheels / Low Profile Tires

- Steering Rack Lowering kit.

- This 914 is 1 3/4” lower than a stock 914

It was a California car originally – but it spent some time in Arizona.

It currently has Arizona Plates, nsurance and registration.

What is Not Perfect:

The LAST thing in the restoration I planned to do was paint and engine.

I never got to these two things. The paint is “Poor” with some primer visible in 2 repair areas (When I was Preparing For Paint).

I did, owever have some bodywork done in prep for the paint

(dent in Fender, ing in door and filled in the antennae hole)

No Heat Exchangers (for passenger compartment heat)

It needs a working Speedometer.

The Interior fan uses an added switch – it is not controlled with the stock lever.

In the recent past there was a problem with asticking fuelinjector.

Occasionally at Start-Up, nd only for the first 30 seconds (or so)after start-up, he injector would stick.

I used a fuel additive (Sea Foam) and the problem seemed to go away,the sticking injector problemhasn't happened for a while now, ossibly because of the warmer weather. The entire fuel system is very clean, omeone told me the Sea Foam is a "lubricant" - and that is why I tried it, nd it or the warm weather worked

But I thought it would be important to at least mention this.

No one will be buying this car for it's 1.7L Engine, ut if the buyer wants to keep using the engine I need to alert the buyer that he might eventually see this problem

An excel spread sheet is available with all dates, osts and things done. A Loose Leaf Binder has all the receipts, iagrams etc.

Thanks for looking and Have Fun!!

PS

One of the pictures shownwas taken during the construction process.

I included this picture to show the removal of the gas tank, iper assembly and air handeling equipment for their restorarion.

This picture also shows the Under-Coating that can be seen in the empty wheel well

I do not have E-Mail access from Noon (PST) Friday until Monday Morning

I will eventually return your weekend E-Mails