1966 Ford Mustang Fastback Blue '66 2+2 New Drivetrain & Suspension 289 V8 330hp

Make:	Ford
Model:	Mustang
SubModel:	Fastback
Type:	Fastback
Trim:	2+2
Year:	1966
Mileage:	200
VIN:	6F09T162029
Color:	Blue
Engine:	289
Cylinders:	8
Fuel:	Gasoline
Transmission:	Automatic
Drive type:	RWD
Interior color:	White Blue
Vehicle Title:	Clear
Item location:	Waxahachie, Texas, United States

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Description of 1966 Ford Mustang 2+2

1966 Ford Mustang Fastback 2+2
All new upgraded drive-train 289 V8 C4 Automatic with limited slip 8.8" rear end.
Power disc brakes all 4 wheels. Power steering.
289 Built by WCH Racing engines Midlothian, TX. Producing 330 HP & 330 Torque.
(See extended details below)
Rebuilt C4 Transmission by Hwy 67 Transmissions Midlothian, TX.
These are New & New re-builds done for THIS sale...not performed 2 to 10 years ago and driven for a few thousand miles. Like when I say new wheels & tires, I mean I just installed the new Goodyears, torque thrust wheels, engine, tranny, C4, brakes & rotors, locking rear end, shocks & springs, multi-spark ignition, aluminum radiator etc., etc...all for this sale!
I also have the receipts & dyno testing performance spread sheets etc...I have only test drove it for tuning purposes so it will be fully enjoyed by YOU!
This is a WELL documented car. I'll make a list at the end of this for the new things. Just know that it is like getting in and starting a new car (with a carburetor)... ïŠ
--The rest of the story if interested is below--
History of the car: It had an amateur restoration between 2000 and 2007. I purchased it in 2007 with plans on doing what I finally did to it this year. The previous owner changed out the 6 cylinder for a V8. The car was an OK looker but didn't drive the best. He drove it for 800 miles during his restoration. It sat in my garage for the past 10 years while I was in and out of the country. I probably should have just sold it as a barely running and drivable '66 fastback. But, I wanted to see part of the dream fulfilled, and truly offer something special when I sold it.
Here's what I've done to it:
I had the engine built by WCH Racing, the transmission built by HWY 67 Transmissions, most of the installation was performed by Dan Bowden of Go2Concepts, and some of the work by me.
The project has taken a little over a year to get to this point...obviously we took the winter off, and I still have spring and fall projects outside of the country. This past week we finished up the last upgrade by putting a new Billet aluminum Pertronix multi-spark Distributor to replace the formerly new HEI (that wasn't operating proficiently) Distributor. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! All the tuning and most of the potentially tweaks have been taken care of.
Engine information:
Heads were ported & milled, new valves & springs etc., new moderately aggressive cam that is still 'streetable' mc24211, bored .030 over with new flat-top pistons, new Weiand Stealth manifold, New Holley 600 4V carburetor, new elongated mustang air cleaner along with several other cosmetic upgrades like the Ford Racing dress up kit including tall valve covers etc..., new Pertronix Billet Igniter3 multi-spark distributor with rev limiter (set at 6200 currently), new Flame Thrower3 coil, New Ford Racing heavier gauged plug wires & performance plugs etc..., new ceramic headers, new one-wire alternator, new bigger battery, new fuel pump, new water pump, new fan, new aluminum larger volume radiator with over flow tank, new aggressive cooling fan, new hoses-wires-belts etc... I have the dyno sheet, cam cards, and receipts. At 5250 rpm it crossed at near 320 HP & torque. Max Torque was near 330 as well as max Horsepower.
Transmission information:
New Performance B&M Torque Converter 2500, C-4 Heavy rebuild w/shift kit & Kevlar bands etc..., new correct '66 accelerator pedal, fire-wall linkage, & new correct shift down kit, chrome dip sticks etc...
Rear end & suspension:
8.8" Ford limited slip (locking) Rear-end with 3.73 gears, new yoke & bolts, new perches & shock plates, new shackles, new u-bolts, new chrome cover etc..., new 4.5 rear springs dropped 1" in rear, new disc brakes slotted & drilled front & rear, new pads etc..., new GT 350 front coil springs lowered 1" (this gives between 300 and 400 lb springs making it somewhere between original weak 250lb & stiff racing 600lb (similar to what I did in the rear), new shocks all around, new master cylinder (all brakes are now disc/powered), new exhaust from new headers back to new gt style tips & flow master style mufflers (sounds great!), new beefy 1.125 sway bar, new control arms, various shock caps, hardware, & brackets etc...New Old School meets modern Torque thrust 17" wheels & New Goodyear tires (just installed!) They look like a cross between old & new school (not too short or tall) with a Great looking stance. The whole car was built to look similar to what you could upgrade to in 1966, but the technology, quality, and performance was nothing like this back then. This car now goes as fast & safely as you hope they would have been.
Interior, other mechanical & miscellaneous:
New Ford Tooling Dash, new Winters Sidewinder Shifter (The original Ford C4 transmission shifter comes with it if you want the stock look), Sound Decision Sound deadening/insulation installed under carpet throughout cab, New carpet, new front bumper, new chrome hood trim, new chrome grill trim, new horns, new mirrors, new chrome door seal plates, several new chrome pieces throughout & some in boxes to install later, new front valiance (metal spoiler) & new deck/trunk lid to install later (when you paint). The underside of the car was scraped to find any trouble spots & the driver's side rear frame rail was repaired at Go2Concepts then all of it was painted. The engine bay was also stripped & painted before the engine install. The cowl was leaking on the driver's fresh air vent duct. It was repaired & painted with a new metal cowl driver's side & a new metal fresh air vent & assembly was installed. The steering wheel was replaced with a new one when I first got it. It still looks great, but after sitting, I wouldn't call it new. I did put a new billet aluminum horn in it last month, because the older style horns were known to have problems popping off and not working. It now functions correctly!
Here's the BAD:
I've spent my time & money on restoring the mechanics and drivability of this car to a pretty incredible level. A level that looks similar to what mustangs looked like in that era, but safer, faster, stronger, more reliable etc... I've done very little to the exterior and interior aside from what the previous owner did. In the photos, the paint looks good. It also looks good from 20 feet in person, and it doesn't have to be painted right now. But the closer you get to it, you can tell this is a 10 to 15 year old paint job. It has chips and dings here and there. The good thing is you can drive the car and enjoy it while you decide how and when to paint it. The worse bump is on the front valiance passenger side (look at the photos). I have a brand new steel valiance that comes with the car for when/if you go to paint it. The trunk's deck lid is also bumped up a little though no one notices because there are no scratches with it. It can either be fixed when painting or you can use the brand deck lid that I'm giving with the car. The hood has scrapes right on the front nose, but no dents. As far as rust goes, most problem areas (especially underneath) have been dealt with correctly. There are very few problems left, like a small area of bubbles under the paint on the top side of the passengers front fender & on top of the drip rails. Both areas are small & covered in paint where a scratch probably wasn't dealt with properly before they painted. Rather than giving a cheap paint job to cover up these problems & sell the car for MUCH more, I'm trying to be honest (probably too much so) and let you paint the car when and how you see fit. The interior looks nice for a driver. It's not cut up and marked up, and is actually nice, but it has 1000 miles on it and 10 to 15 years of sitting in a garage to no longer look new. The A/C has always worked and was at some point converted to R134a. It is noisy and smells old, but puts out very cold (not just cool) air on a hot Texas day. I usually only turn it on to make sure it works. Most of the time, I have the windows down listening to the engine and enjoying the drive. I did not replace its working compressor or the working power steering pump. They could be upgraded in the future if they stop working. All the glass is there. Some felts and rubbers have been replaced, but most of them will need it when/if you paint. Again, I focused on upgrading to reliable, safe, and higher performance in the drive-train. If the interior and paint wasn't broken, I didn't fix it.
I did start some interior upgrades with a new Ford OEM dash, steering wheel, brake & accelerator pedals, air vent, and threshold chrome seal plates.
I have a ton of other photos and welcome questions about the car. Just ask...