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1984 Ford Mustang, Drag Race Fox Body, 385 Windsor Stroker, C4 w/Trans Brake

1984 Ford Mustang

Condition: Used
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Type: Fastback
Year: 1984
VIN: 1FABP28M9EF178085
Cylinders: 8
Vehicle Title: Clean
Item location: Oil Springs, Kentucky, United States
Extras
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Description for Ford Mustang 1984

E
1
BASE ENGINE
• 385 CID Forged SBF Windsor Stroker
• Ford C90E 1969 High-Nickel Block
• 9.475 Deck, 4.040 Bore, 3.75 Stroke
• 11.75:1 Static Compression Ratio
• Probe Forged Crankshaft
• Probe Forged Lightweight I-Beam Rods
• Probe SRS Forged Pistons -4cc
• Perfect Circle Race Rings
• Clevite CL77 Bearings
• ARP Fasteners
E
2
VALVETRAIN
• Howard's Hydraulic Roller Cam #22275-10
• .581/.603 Lift, .294/300 Duration, 110°
• Howard's Linkbar Hyd. Roller Lifters
• Howard's Double Roller Timing Set
• Edelbrock Victor Jr. Aluminum Race Heads
• 2.02 Stainless Steel Valves
• Stage 2 Porting by Keith Craft Racing
• Comp Cams Dual Valve Springs, 354 lbs
• Comp Cams Aluminum Roller Rockers
• Harland Sharp Stud Girdle
E
3
ENGINE ACC
• Edelbrock Victor Jr. Single Plane Intake
• Quick Fuel 850 CFM Drag Race Carburetor
• SFI Pro-Race Balancer, 28 oz.
• Canton Fox Body 7 Quart Oil Pan
• Moroso Electric Water Pump
• MSD 6AL Distributor w/Chipset
• MSD Adjustable 2-Step Rev Controller
• MAC Coated Long Tube Headers
TTIRES (2 SETS INCLUDED)
[Race]
• Weld Racing Aluminum Drag-Lites
• Hoosier 28/9-15 Drag Slicks (75%)
• Hoosier 25/5-15 Drag Fronts (100%)
[Street]
• Polished Alum Cobra Style Wheels
• MT 255/50R16 ET Street Radial (80%)
• Doral 205/60R16 Street Tires (90%)
D
TRANSMISSION
• Mighty Mite C4 by Dynamic Racing
• Reverse Manual Valve Body w/Trans Brake
• 8 in. 4,200 Stall Race Torque Converter
• SFI Aluminum Bellhousing
• Powermaster High-Torque Race Starter
• SFI Flexplate, External Bal. 28 oz.
• Winter's Sidewinder Reverse Pattern Shifter
• Transmission Cooler
• Stiffler's Tubular Crossmember
• Energy Suspension Urethane Mount
RREAR-END/DRIVELINE
• “Built” Ford 8.8 w/3.73 Gears & Full Spool
• Moser Forged 31 Spline Axles
• Welded Tubes & UPR Stud Girdle
• CHE T/X Extreme Axle Brace
• Edelbrock Aluminum Upper Control Arms
• Boxed Lower Control Arms
• Team Z Anti-Roll Bar
• Wild Ride Battle Boxes
• Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft
• Driveshaft Loop & Steeda T5/C4 Spacer
S
SUSPENSION & BRAKES
• UPR Chrome Moly K-Member for SBF
• UPR Chrome Moly A-Arms
• UPR Front Coilovers w/90/10 Drag Struts
• UPR Rear Coilovers
• Strange Adjustable Rear Drag Shocks
• Flaming River Manual Steering Rack
• Bump Steer Kit
• UPR Adjustable Castor/Camber Plates
• Front End Travel Limiter Chains
• Steeda SSBC Rear Disc Conversion
• M.Motorsports Manual Brake Conversion
BBODY/OTHER
• Maximum Motorsports 6-Point Roll Cage
• Swing-Out High Door Bars
• 4 inch Fiberglass Raised Cowl Hood
• RCI Custom 5-Point Harnesses w/Cam Lock
• RCI Aluminum Fuel Cell, 10 Gal, 17x17x9
• Full Fuel Cell Bulkhead
• Aluminum Battery Box
• Biondo Line Lock
• Moroso Isolated Rear Safety Kill Switch
• Full Autometer Instrumentation
• New (2020) 85 Series Die Hard Battery
Q
TERMS, QUESTIONS & OTHER DETAILS
WHY AM I SELLING?
I am retiring and moving out of state. I love this car … but I can't take it with me to the new house (small garage, suburban neighborhood). So I have decided to sell. I have tried to list all the parts and specifications I can possibly think of. If there is something you don't see in the lists above, please let me know and I'll try to answer.
IS IT STREET LEGAL?
No, I don't think so. It does have seat belts, brake lights and head lights …. but it does not have: blinkers, mufflers, emissions, windshield wipers, heat/air, etc. It's pretty much a straight race car. Even if you put the street tires on it, you would be pushing your luck to drive it around on public roads. This car is LOUD and RUDE too!
WHAT'S THE ¼ MILE TIME?
I don't really know. The car has been developed in stages. The last time it was down the ¼ mile was back in 2014 and we were at about 11 flat, but that was prior to the addition of the single plane manifold, the Quick Fuel 850 race carb, the trans brake, the Team Z Anti-Roll Bar, and some other stuff. So our old numbers wouldn't be accurate now. My best guess is that it likely runs low to mid-10's in this configuration. A squirt of nitrous would probably get you in the 9s, but you would have to change gears and add more safety equipment. To be honest, it scares the crap out of me as it is. I think I like working on race cars more than I like driving them. I'm gettin' old I guess.
HAS IT BEEN ON A DYNO OR A SCALE?
No. I imagine it makes around 550 horsepower, based on the specs and flow numbers of the heads, but that's a (conservative) guess. The curb weight of this car was about 3,100 lbs from the factory. Given the aluminum upgrades to the body and suspension, and the disposal of unnecessary factory components, I calculate the current curb weight around 2,800.
WHAT ABOUT FUEL?
I have only used VP 110 race fuel in this motor. However, the compression ratio of this motor (11.75:1) is right on the line where 93 octane pump-gas “might” work okay (the aluminum heads and big overlap cam help also). So, it might run on 93, but I never tried it. I didn't want to take a chance on hurting the motor from detonation.
CAN I SHIP THE CAR?
I would prefer you come to my garage in Oil Springs, KY and pick-up the car in person (Yes, you can hear it run - No, you can't test-drive it). If an in-person pick-up isn't possible, you can hire a 3rd party vehicle shipper. Of course, you will need to have cleared funds and make your own arrangements. I'll be happy to help to get it loaded and send you the docs by mail.
EXTRA PARTS/TOOLING?
Apart from the second set of tires & wheels, I have an assortment of supplies and parts for this car in my engine cabinet (shims, seals, gaskets, filters, plugs, some specialty tools, etc.). I'm going to pack it all up and give it to the new owner as well. I'll have no need for that stuff in Florida, and some of it may be far more useful to you than me.
DOES THE CAR HAVE A TITLE? WHAT'S THE MILEAGE?
Yes. I have a clear title in my name. The mileage of the original car-body is unknown. The car hasn't had an odometer for 10 years. Of course, apart from the car body, the only “original” Ford mechanical parts left on the car are the axle-housing and the front spindles. All the other mechanical parts are either new or custom built. But the car does still have its VIN number, both up on the dash and on the door sticker.
PRICING/RESERVE
When I go through this list of parts and start tallying up the cost of building this car, the total is astronomical. Yet, I'm quite aware that the "market value" of a used race car doesn't necessarily correspond to the cost of building it. So I won't lecture anyone on "how much this car is worth." To be honest, I have no idea what this car is worth to someone else. So, if you're seriously interested, I encourage you to submit some offers and/or let's discuss what a fair deal might be.
DISCLAIMER:
This probably goes without saying, but this car is an antique (36 years old). There are obviously no warranties expressed or implied. Moreover, this is a highly-modified vehicle, it is not EPA compliant, it would not pass any state inspection, and it is not suitable for general transportation. This vehicle was modified for racing – and racing is a dangerous sport. Safety equipment must be verified, updated and maintained by the purchaser. The purchaser accepts all risks, to both persons and property, resulting from the operation of this vehicle.