W200 Factory 383 with A/C, factory winch with camper special package

My 1969 dodge power wagon W200 that my grandfather custom ordered and has always been in the family. Comes with the custom order carbon copy my grandpa filled out and other original order forms. Truck custom ordered with camper special package and overload rear springs from factory. Factory air conditioning and 383 with NP 435 trans with low 1st gear, np205 transfer case with PTO for winch, Spicer 44-3cf sealed knuckle front axle and dana 60 rear. Also originally ordered and equipped are the heavy duty warn locking hubs and power boosted brakes (not all had). I have taken care of this truck since 2001, it came with undercoating protection from the factory which I have occasionally re-covered whenever I see an area uncovered. I run royal purple in everything except the engine.

Within the previous few months I have replaced both batteries, the voltage regulator (updated to transistor 1970 style), dual battery trickle charger 120v, heater core, radiator, ac condenser, ac clutch and refrigerant, high flow thermostat, front wheel bearings and seals, front lower knuckle bearing and race both sides, knuckle seals/gaskets, transfer case seals/gaskets, driveline seals, brand new tires, new rear window seal, new retro sound stereo with aux input and Bluetooth but appears classic, new carburetor choke thermostat, starter relay, fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod.

Within the last ten years I have replaced the brake wheel cylinders, master cylinder, rear wheel seals, camshaft and bearing, lifters, timing chain(double roller), rear main, thermostat, 100 amp alternator update to transistor 1970 system, water pump aluminum, upgraded flex fan, ac system completely rebuilt new hoses and seals compressor and expansion valve, new climate control switch box,

Within the last 5 years the carburetor rebuild, electronic ignition (pertronix Ignitor1+ ballast resistor), tune up, upgraded starter (late 90s dodge style), new headers, supplemental electric pump added (in case of emergency), drag link (upgraded design), heavy duty tie rod ends, upgraded steering gear (Saginaw design), new window seals, door seals, windshield seals, new glove compartment liner, new skyjacker shocks, brakes(shoes, hardware kits and resurfaced drums),

Spare parts included: 4 bins in my shed of random spare parts, spare front bumper, original spare,(have good spare too, spare original rims x4, spare transfer case, locking hub, intake manifolds, and much more.

Within the past 15 years: transmission was re sealed, new clutch, cylinder heads rebuilt to unleaded specifications,

Mostly everything works and the truck is complete and runs and drives except the ac has not been recharged since being rebuilt. Comes with rear electric winch and control. When new, truck was taken to Barden in Woodland, CA for the two saddle tanks and extendable rear bumper installed.

This truck is driven regularly but not often, I have put 9,000 miles on it in 20 years and it is currently at 90,658.9 miles. To the best of my knowledge and according to my grandpa who passed in 2013, my uncle who owned it second and my father third that is original miles and original engine. The above list is just what I can think of, I’ve done a lot more.

Rust; Since that is the first question Rust has not progressed at all since my taking ownership, I was able to stop all I can see. There was some in the kick panels along the chrome trim where rubber floor meets edge on both sides, I have never pulled up the rubber flooring that was optional as the flooring would potentially be damaged. The roof has some surface rust under the headliner but nothing structural beyond surface rust. There are a few rust holes under the hood on inner fenders straight up from the tires but also I was able to stop it years ago with POR 15 and paint. The cabin intake cowel below windshield is a common spot for these trucks to rust, As I was performing the heater core job this area must be accessed, while in there I preemptively applied POR 15 and painted all surfaces even though there was no rust. Fine chicken wire was added to prevent buildup of materials in the cowel as well which commonly leads to these rusting out. Bed has surface rust but nothing anywhere near damage or rust holes. Other than that is all the Rust I Know of. Floorboards feel solid and truck drives great.

Truck has a rust oleum paint job from 2009, whenever it chips I generously add Dark hunter Green. Very similar to the original color which I have photos of it from the 80s.

In 1987 it did have one collision. Someone in a station wagon made an illegal u-turn in front of the truck. The truck ran over the hood of the station wagon with the front passenger tire. As mentioned, if you really don’t like where the blacksmith had to straighten the bumper I have a spare bumper that just would need paint. As you can tell I've amassed several spare parts over the years and largely kept the truck original with good modifications that just bolt on. I even have an unopened dual fuel propane kit as I was planning on getting a tank to run in the bed. Both saddle tanks in the bed leak, but the passenger one leaks from a bolt on the very top at the sending unit and only leaks when 100% filled up. The driver’s side has a very slow seep leak at a bracket that is so slow it only looks wet and I never see anything drip. The main tank is perfectly fine behind the seat. Seat is torn under the seat cover but frame still holds fine and seat adjuster fully operates.

Truck also comes with the original order forms my grandpa filled out, a 1972 and 73 registration card that are somehow in incredible condition. The 1973 card still has the license plate tag unused and unopened and untorn from the card. Comes with a moldy 1970 owners manual. Still has reverse lug nuts on driver’s side.

Buyer responsible for inspecting vehicle prior to placing a bid. Happy to do face time video calls or crawl underneath on FaceTime. Always been a California truck.