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This is a 2 Owner 1971 Cyclone Spoiler. 1 of 353 built, 7000 original miles. I purchased this vehicle from the original owner in Oct. 2011.The engine anddrive train is completely matching numbers and if you look at the pictures the engine compartment is UNRESTORED. You can see the factory markings and most of the factory decals are still in place. The original carb was rebuilt with and still has the "D1" tag. The engine runs flawlessly, oes not blow a hint of smoke. Only wear items were changed such as the fuel pump, oltage regulator (needed it), attery, lectronic ignition with Flamethower coil etc. The radiator was re-cored, new thermostat, oses, till has factory fan shroud. Two years ago I took apart the top half of the engine to replace a leaking head gasket, hile I was in there I replaced both just in case. I had the heads examined for straightness just as a precaution. The builder couldn't believe the condition of the heads, ure enough it was the gasket which makes sense since the car sat for 25 years.The clutch was replaced recently by me, ust an OEM clutch nothing fancy. I had the trans examined by the same builder while it was out and it was the same story. The internals were mint only the bearings and seals were replaced.The rear end is where I think the trouble is. Like all Spoilers it has a trac-lok rear end and I think it has a chattering problem. But what I dont get is locking rear ends usually chatter when cornering from the lack of frictionmodifier. In this case it only chatters when taking off from a stand still. I can hear a clunk then the whole car will violently shake. Sometimes it goes away and I can keep going, ther times I have to stop and try again. I dont know that much about rear ends so feel free to enlighten me on the subject but expect a rebuild there.The exhaust is a reproduction of the original, ts fairly quiet which is the way i prefer but wouldnt mind a little more aggressiveness.The body was professionally repainted two years ago and being a Minnesota car, t needed a ton of work. The driver front fender and trunk lid were replaced due to rust/damage. The front driver floor pan was replaced, he rest of the floor is good. Rear quarters and wheel lips needed several patches. The roof and hood just had dents but it all came together well, dont think the doors were ever off. The body gaps are great. the front of the hood sits a little high due to larger hood bumpers. Dont know why the repro bumpers are bigger. The bumpers were rechromed, he front bumper could use a little alignment.The wheel and tires are two years old as well. Tires have probably 90% tread, ne of the center caps broke and is in the trunk. The suspension is original except for lower control arms, all joints and sway bar end links. I don't know if they are factory but it has Gabriel Hijacker air shocks in the back and they still hold air! You can raise or lower the rear end as you please. The brakes were all gone through.This is a manual steering, anual drum brake, anual shift, on A/C car.The interior is all original except for the carpet. The ultra rare door panels have the typical arm rest cracks as does the drivers seat (see pic) the passenger and rear seat are good and comfy too. The console lid is broken and judging by the design I am sure it was common. Rim blow steering wheel works but has the typical 12 and 6 o' clock cracks. The dash pad which is notorious for cracking is MINT. Not oneseparationand all of the gauges work even the ammeter! That was how I knew the voltage regulator was bad. Headliner is factory and is also mint! All lights and controls work. I dont think the AM radio was ever out and it works, he sound quality isn't that bad either. I replaced the heater core (stunk bad) and blower motor with a NOS unit. When replacing the heater core I couldn't help but notice how nice and neat the dash wiring is. No one has ever been there. And of course the Hurst shifter is present and in good working order.Before I go any further, just want to point out a couple other small issues. I already mentioned the rear end problem. I wanted to bring up the fact that the clutch pedal does not return all the way, robably a worn spring and/or bushing. Also the cooling system makes me a little nervous. Even on a fairly warm day the temp gauge will increase the moment you starting idling. I know that is kind of the way these cars are but I would suggest an aftermarket or at least a replacement water pump in the near future.As for documentation I have the following:-Marti Report andstatistics breakdown (1 of 1 car)-Window Sticker-Warranty Facts booklet (with original ownershandwriting filled out at bottom)-Consumer Information page (with vehicles matching VIN printed at top corner)-Registration Card from the last time the car was registered by original owner (May 1986)-Owner card-Copy of Minnesota title (Issued June 17th 1978) I had to turn this into the NYS DMV. NY does not issue titles for cars this old. I would just need to sign the back of theregistration.-Build sheet (whats left of it)- And last but not least the FORD litter bagEverything is laminated and kept in a binder. Before I forget I have both sets of original keys, ne of them still has the destroy tag!!! The factory wheels are long gone but I have the factory trims rings and center caps and they are in excellent shape! I guess they were taken off early in the cars life for the mag wheels and JCWhitney "Scat Trac" tires (see trunk pic). The factory jack, pare holder, nd trunk lid prop rod (rare item) are in trunk.I have described the car to the best of my ability, f you have any questions let me know.
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