Volkswagen Beetle - classic- 1950 Hoffman Split.

Condition: Used
Make: Volkswagen
Model: Beetle - Classic
SubModel: Standard Hoffman Split
Type: Standard Split.
Trim: Standard
Year: 1950
Mileage: 100,000
VIN: 1 10189825
Color: L23 Silver Gray
Engine: Modified 1600 Plus.
Transmission: 1967
Interior color: Tan
Vehicle Title: Clear
Item location: Wallington, New Jersey, United States
Extras

Listed by
Private seller
Enquire

Description of 1950 Volkswagen Beetle - Classic Standard

1950 Modified Standard Hoffman Split.Price: $70,000 Firm.
1950 Modified Standard Hoffman Split.
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Hello. My car was featured in the April 2017 issue of Hot VW Magazine. If you have this copy I recommend that you read the entire story about it.
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Yes, this is a HOFFMAN car. Meaning this is one of the first 157 + (2 in 1949) VW Beetles officially imported into the USA through the Max Hoffman Dealership in New York City.
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Do you want a Split that is 100% correct with a 25hp engine with matching numbers and crash-box trans. ( That you will never drive on the highway?) Then I hope you have a big pickup with a trailer? And this is not the car for you.
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Or do you want a Split that looks 100% correct but has all the features to allow you to drive to all the shows, or cross country while keeping up with traffic. IF YOU WANT A SPLIT YOU CAN DRIVE & ENJOY, this split is for you.
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VERY IMPORTANT! All my modifications are reversable. I didn’t do anything to this car that can’t be put back to 100% original. Most modified Splits are on a newer chassis. This is on the original chassis. So it keeps it’s original value.
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At the 2017 Greenwich Concours d’ Elegance in CT. I won “GERMAN Best in Class” This is almost the East Coast equivalent of Pebble Beach in CA. I have also won the 2015 Ramapo Concour’s d’ Elegance along with many Volkswagen shows.
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The engine is a 1600 starting with a new block. I added a counterweighted crank shaft, a 110 cam, new P&S and heads. The Carb was rebuilt buy the best, Tim at Volkzbitz.com The car is switched to 12 volt with a new Alternator. The heater boxes are new and ceramic coated. The Muffler is a single tip EMPI header system that was heat coated in gray by Jet-Hot. Heavy Duty oil-pump. And I rebuilt the can air-cleaner adding an internal velocity stack and a blue air filter on one end. The oil breather goes through the fan shroud and out the bottom. I relocated the coil, and body worked the entire fan shroud.
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From the bottom you see the 1967 trans which is your best year swing axle trans with the best gearing, the 200mm flywheel and clutch and 12 volt starter. This is maybe the only split chassis running a non-crashbox trans. I designed and made a custom front trans mount. I removed and added short axles from a 1965 and the original 1950 axle tubes. The Muffler part of the header is wrapped in header wrap and I added special heat shield material to the inside of the rear apron. The coil is also wrapped with header heat wrap. I sent out the original lever shocks a specialist to have them rebuilt. Then I added a Camber Compensator. I built it to drive.
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This was a body off restoration. The entire original front end was completely rebuilt, the shocks are new, and I added a heavy duty fat front sway bar with stainless steel strap clamps.
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All the brake cables were bought new from Germany. The cable brake light switch is NOS. I also ran a new gas line through the tunnel. And the correct short front tunnel floor mat, correct for standards only. I added extra support plates for the standard seats to sit on. New Seat studs and wing nuts. And the correct rear section of German square weave carpet for a standard.
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The multi-functional trunk behind the back seat. In all my cars I must have music. I bought this trunk and mounted ¾” plywood to the ends inside, on each side, then cut out the 6x9 speaker holes. In the car you can barely see the cut outs on the side. You get great sound. I also use this trunk to carry any spare parts and tools I need to fix any problem I could have while miles from home. The foam helps the sound, plus stops the stuff from rattling.
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Stop and admire that dash. I feel that is the nicest dash ever of any VW I have ever seen. The 3 spoke steering Wheel is NOS. Looking in the glove box is your music. A nice Kenwood AM/FM stereo with CD but I always play my Ipod through the USB input. This stereo is also hooked up to a power amp. When I pull into a show, I shut the stereo and I have a small black cloth that hides the stereo.
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Next to the stereo in the drivers glove box is a little toggle switch. If you have it flipped to your left, the stock center dash directional switch will operate the Semaphores. If you flip it to the right, the same center dash switch operates the directional lights front and rear. A very cool wiring add on.
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The seats and door panels were done by Lenny Copp at West Coast Restorations in CA. This is the correct German material. Standards don’t have piping on the seat edges. The headliner came out great. The rear view mirror is correct too.
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Looking again at the dash you’ll see the original VW accessory gas reserve extension lever. And the Miles Speedo is also NOS. I also added a cigarette lighter socket under the dash so you have a place to charge your cell phone.
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Look at the right dash pod. Standards don’t have the chrome ring around. Know what? I don’t care, everybody likes it. Beautiful chrome script against the black, and the 100,000 Kilometer badge is an official VW badge. An original cruiser pedal. It presses against the original round wheel and what a difference it makes driving with one.
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The beautiful trunk. New correct cardboard. Gas tank was cleaned, sealed, and powder coated along with the correct steel gas cap also coated. The shiny aluminum ones are for deluxe models. I put a vent tube in as otherwise they are known push out gas from the cap when hot with a full tank. Matching new spare. I disconnected the hood prop so there would be no accident bending my near perfect hood. I made a pole to hold the hood when open, to close the prop pipe sits across those hooks by the tank. The small case I keep some tools, fuses etc. The triangle box under it opens and inside is the scissor jack, and road flares.
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Last the glove boxes are not original. They are repros I bought from Bob Koch and reworked them. The back of the driver’s glove box is the worst part of the car, the stereo and amp hang out the back.
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The entire spare tire area was rebuilt with perfect reproduction panels from overseas. I rebuilt the semaphores with as many new parts as I could get. Can’t show it in the picture but I bought an installed the LED bulbs that blink.
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My Bekowa roof rack. Definitely one of the best roof rack restorations. 9 Slat correct as you will get for this car. Beautiful oak slats covered in urethane are perfect with the twist rivets. The suitcases are period correct. I found one and it took over another year to find the exact duplicate. I don’t use them they are just for show. I also gave them a coat of urethane so the suitcases won’t take on water if it rains. The straps are amazing. I bought them from the V-Dub Hub.
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The 3rd brake light is KILLER. I made the bolt on bar that holds my AACA and VVWCA club badges. I found the stop light and fitted it with atleast 40 bright LED bulbs I got from an industrial light. It can’t be missed. Then I found a visor making it look great. The ring around the light and the visor were chrome and didn’t look right. So I had a friend glass bead the chrome to give it all dull look to match the car.
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WAIT!!! The normal taillight were only parking lights. These are now the parking lights and also Brake lights. Nice and bright. I got the dual filament bulb holders from Kaefer-nostalgia. And the pope’s nose is just a License plate light the way it was meant to be.
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The Bosch horn is correct. The horn has the front screw on Bosch plate on it. And the bumper guard is not fabricated. It is an official stamped VW standard Horn bumper mount.
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The Wipers. I am using oval wiper arms because I drive it. Sometimes in the rain. But I have the correct skinny bar wipers for it. Splits used metal bendable tubing to run the taillight wires through which I used.
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Those beautiful wheels. Right off the bat. These are 15” rims not 16”. You can’t tell because that’s only a ½” top & bottom. But you get a wider rim. And these are the ones with the square indent around the tube stem showing these have the inner lip meant for non-tube, radial tires. I know whitewalls are not correct for standard. But you can’t say they don’t make that car pop. And I also two-toned the rims. The radials give the car so much added control over the old square tires and look great.
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Are you ready to own a beautiful split you can drive and enjoy. Take out a loan then later sell some of your stuff. I’m sure you will be very happy with this car.
Any questions email me atVWbooks@aol.comBob Cropsey, New Jersey.